88 . 27 GREEN OSCMt U n p u b l i s h e d m a n u s c r i p t of O s c a r Green' a c c o u n t of h i s days w o r k i n g on the steam b o a t "The S.S. D i s t r i b u t o r " , on the A t h a b a s c a , S l a v e and M a c K e n i z e R i v e r s d u r i n g the 1920*s and e a r l y 1930's. O s c a r G r e e n came to A t h a b a s c a L a n d i n g i n l 9 1 1 . Donated by d a u g h t e r Mildced P h i l l i p s . Iy Tlxe. S.S. r Distributor T3 U rt a JS 4J U 3 O 88.27 s e c o n d card M-I CM 00 CO 03 oo -J -u-3<^*e^kX*iLi" A l e x a n d e r , B i r d , Joe jf. Davis, Slim C a l h o o n , Mr. yf. Day, V Stark, Jack O^' B * i n ? Slim l-tl Hl-h O Pl P. 88.27 t h i r d card iM^fBrasseau, Tuffy G i f f o r d , Tiny , J^. H a i g h t , OinHiu £,JL^aJL afe^>*m a \Jrf>. Sffp LJiL-K S m e l l y Ocl^, Ay^, Benny J o h n s o n , Doug CrTTtnin M i l l s T X m e s UMJI i a t l Reed OsIcnc^. 1^21. C a p t a i n N y l e r u2"2. Malcom, B i l l . McMttllin , Stan /VkP W Jm 5 1 1 r 26 . St-eamor N.T.C.L. Raduim Trad-e ,\ (f^f ')) 1 - NORTH - by O s c a r G r e e n a s told in O c t o b e r , 1987 T h i s i s O s c a r G r e e n b o r n on M a r c h 1, 1902 and came t o A t h a b a s c a L a n d i n g i n t h e s p r i n g o f 1911. A f t e r a few y e a r s g o t a j o b w i t h C a p t a i n A l e x a n d e r p r e p a r i n g t h e o l d S l a v e R i v e r s t e a m b o a t t o f a k e i t down t h e A t h a b a s c a R i v e r t o F t . M c M r r a y . Then t o o p e r a t e f r o m F t . M c M u r r a y t o F t . C h i p e w y a n t o F t . F i t z g e r a l d . A l s o t o meet t h e D.A. Thomas s t e a m b o a t f r o m P e a c e R i v e r a t Verrni I i o n C h u t e p o r t a g e . H o w e v e r g e t t i n g t h e b o a t r e a d y was q u i t e a I i i t l e c h o r e and I l e a r n e d q u i t e a few t h i n g s t h a t i had n e v e r done o r h e a r d a b o u t b e f o r e and l e a r n e d how t o p u t t a r on t h e seams u n d e r n e a t h t h e b o a t w h e r e i t had been c o r k e d w i t h oakum. To do t h i s t h e y t o o k t w o l i d s and f a s t e n e d t h e m t o g e t h e r , t o o k a p a i i and made a h a n d l e on i t and p u t a k i n d o f r o p e a r o u n d b e t w e e n t h e t w o l i d s which, had l i t t l e f l a n g e s on t h e m and r o l l e d t h i s u n d e r n e a t h on t h e seams w h i c h I i f t e d t h e t a r up and c o v e r e d t h e oakum and t h e seams u n d e r n e a t h t h e b o a t . In 1918 t h e w a t e r was t o o low so t h e t r i p was p o s t p o n e d u n t i l t h e s p r i n g o f 1919. We l e f t A t h a b a s c a L a n d i n g on t h e 22nd day o f May, 1919 and a r r i v e d a t G r a n d e R a p i d s and t h e r e we t i e d up o v e r n i g h t and a t 7 : 0 0 in t h e m o r n i n g o f May 2 3 , 1919 we went o v e r t h e Grande Rapids. We h i t m a i n l y t h r e e l a r g e b o u l d e r s , m a k i n g s e v e r a l h o l e s i n t h e b o t t o m o f t h e b o a t w h i c h was a b o u t 130 o r 140 f e e t l o n g w i t h a p a d d l e wheel on t h e b a c k and a s t e a m b o i l e r f i r e d by wood. We g o t t o t h e b o f t o m o f G r a n d e R a p i d s w i t h a bunch o f h o l e s i n t h e b o t t o m o f t h e b o a t ( o r t h e h u l l ) , t i e d up t o t h e bank and t h e C a p t a i n and m y s e l f and some o f t h e c r e w w e n t t o w o r k p u t t i n g what we c a l l e d s o f t p a t c h e s o v e r t h e s e h o l e s w h e r e t h e b o a r d s w e r e b r o k e n up b e t w e e n t h e r i b s o f t h e b o a t . The r i b s w e r e a b o u t s i x i n c h e s w i d e and t e n i n c h e s h i g h and a p p r o x i m a t e l y a f o o t between r i b s . We had made t h e s e s o f t p a t c h e s by c u t t i n g up hardwood b o a r d s and n a i l i n g o a k u m , t a l o , g u i n n i e s a c k s and c a n v a s t o make t h e so c a l l e d " s o f t p a t c h e s " . Then we c u t p o s t s w h i c h w e r e a b o u t 4 i n c h e s s q u a r e , l e a v i n g them w i t h e n o u g h room t o p u t on t o p o f t h e s o f t p a t c h e s and by h a v i n g t w o hardwood wedges t h a t t a p e r e d f r o m a b o u t s i x i n c h e s down t o o n e - e i g h t h o f an i n c h w h i c h g a v e us a t o t a l o f a b o u t 12 i n c h e s t o p r e s s t h e p a t c h down f r o m t h e f l o o r o r j o i s t a b o v e . T h i s w o u l d s t o p t h e most o f t h e w a t e r and f o r c e t h e b r o k e n p l a n k s b a c k i n t o t h e i r o r i g i n a l p l a c e a s much a s p o s s i b l e . H o w e v e r t h e r e was o n e l a r g e h o l e w h e r e t h e w a t e r was r e a l l y g u s h i n g i n w h i c h was behind t h e c r i b b i n g around t h e b o i l e r , t h a t i s t h e f r o n t p a r t of t h e b o i i e r where t h e t u b e s a r e and t h e r e was no way t o g e t i n t o t h i s c r i b b i n g a s i t was made o f a b o u t 4 x 4 hardwood b r a c e s w i t h a b o u t 3/4 i n c h b o l t s s l a n t i n g t h r o u g h and b o l t i n g i t a l l t o g e t h e r and t h e f o r w a r d p a r t o f t h e b o i l e r , o r I s h o u l d s a y t h e b a c k w a r d p a r t o f t h e b o i l e r w h e r e t h e t u b e s w e r e , was i n s i d e o f t h i s more o r l e s s c r i b L ' However, a f t e r t r y i n g - s e v e r a l p e o p l e t r i e d t o g e t t h r o u g h t h e h o l e t h a t was i n t h e c r i b b i n g b u t w e r e u n a b l e t o do so - C a p t a i n A l e x a n d e r s a y s "We g o t t o g e t t h r o u g h ! " So he a s k e d me t o h a v e a t r y . I t o o k o f f my c l o t h e s (we w e r e s t a n d i n g i n w a t e r up t o o u r w a i s t s ) and t h e C a p t a i n p u t w a t e r on me and e v e r y t h i n g and p u s h e d and p u l l e d u n t i l finally I g o t i n s i d e t h e c r i b a n d was a b l e t o s t o p t h e w a t e r f r o m g u s h i n g u p . Prior to that a l l o f t h e pumps and t h e s i p h o n s w e r e u n a b l e t o keep t h e w a t e r down. The w a t e r was g a i n i n g and t h e b o a t w o u l d have s a n k a s i t was q u i t e a d e p t h o f w a t e r i n t h e eddy b e l o w the f a l l s . When we g o t t h e w a t e r pumped o u t we p r o c e e d e d on down t h e r i v e r . We w e r e v e r y , v e r y l u c k y t o have J o e B i r d f o r a p i l o t a s he had t a k e n s e v e r a l o t h e r b o a t s down t h r o u g h t h e G r a n d e R a p i d s and on down t o M c M u r r a y p r i o r t o t h i s o n e . We d i d n ' t know b u t we d i d h e a r h e a r s a y w h i c h may be t r u e o r f a l s e t h a t M r . C a l h o o n o f t h e K i n g Edward H o t e l i n Edmonton and J . H . B r i a n who had a c o a l m i n e a s w e l l a s b o u g h t and s o l d f u r had i n t e r e s t e d a company i n t h e S t a t e s known a s L a n s o n H u b b a r d C o , and t h e y had o p e n e d up s e v e r a l p o s t s up n o r t h and down t h e M a c K e n z i e R i v e r . H o w e v e r , a f t e r g o i n g t h r o u g h a l l o f t h e r a p i d s ( t h e r e i s a b o u t 80 m i l e s o f and t h e r e ' s w h a t t h e y c a l l t h e B i g C a s c a d e , L i t l i e C a s c a d e , B o i l e r R a p i d s , Rapids, Crooked Rapids and so forth. However t h e G r a n d e R a p i d s was t h e main rapids Wrigiey s t u m b l i n g b l o c k ) we a r r i v e d a t M c M u r r a y and i m m e d i a t e l y g o t a l o a d and went t o F i t z g e r a l d ( F t . F i t z g e r a l d ) . We made s e v e r a l t r i p s , s t o p p i n g a t F t . C h i p e w y a n on t h e way, down t o F i t z g e r a l d , up t h e V e r m i l l i o n C h u t e s f o r t h e f r e i g h t was b r o u g h t f r o m P e a c e R i v e r by t h e D.A. Thomas and i t s a b o u t a two m i l e o r t w o and o n e h a l f m i l e p o r t a g e around V e r m i l l i o n Chutes. H e r e we w e r e j o i n e d by a new e m p l o y e e who we c a I Ied S l i m D a v i s . I w i l l t e I I you more a b o u t S l i m D a v i s I a t e r o n . I H o w e v e r t h e c h i e f e n g i n e e r had made a t o o l , box and I had made a r r a n g e m e n t s w i t h one o f t h e o t h e r e m p k y e e s t o go o u t s h o o t i n g p a r t r i d g e s i n c e t h e r e was no r e s t r i c t i o n s a t t h a t t i m e and he t o l d me t h a t on my t i m e o f f I w o u l d p a i n t h i s t o o l box he had j u s t made. I t o l d him " n o " t h a t I was g o i n g h u n t i n g b u t t h a t I w o u l d p a i n t i t on my s h i f t on when I was g o i n g b a c k on - we had s h i f t s o f s i x h o u r s on and s i x o f f . However, he d i d n ' t a g r e e t o t h a t so he f i r e d me! W e l l in t h e meantime C a p t a i n A l e x a n d e r and I had become r e a s o n a b l y g o o d f r i e n d s and I had l e a r n e d a l l a b o u t t h e b o a t and l o a d i n g and u n l o a d i n g and a l l t h a t and t h e C a p t a i n t o l d me t o s t a y t h e r e on t h e p o r t a g e , t h a t was V e r m i l i o n C h u t e p o r t a g e , and M r . C a l h o o n was t h e r e i n c h a r g e o f t h e portage. So I s t a y e d u n t i l t h e y came b a c k a b o u t a week l a t e r . The C a p t a i n was g o i n g t o t a k e me on a s mate b u t d i d n ' t want t o do s o f o r f e a r o f u p s e t t i n g t h e e n g i n e e r who had f i r e d me. H o w e v e r t h e y n e e d e d someone a t F t . S m i t h on t h e b o a t t h e y w e r e b u i l d i n g w h i c h was named t h e " D i s t r i b u t o r " . T h e y w e r e p u t t i n g m a c h i n e r y i n and g e t t i n g i t r e a d y t o g o . In f a c t we t o o k o f f w i t h t h e D i s t r i b u t o r b e f o r e i t was f i n i s h e d , t h a t i s t h e u p p e r structure. We t o o k o f f w i t h o u t a p i l o t h o u s e and no d o o r s i n f r o n t o f t h e b o i l e r and no a s b e s t o s c o v e r i n g o v e r t h e t h e b o i l e r and so f o r t h . We t o o k o f f and went a s f a r n o r t h a s A k l a v i k j u s t s h o r t o f t h e A r t i e Ocean a b o u t 70 m i l e s . One o f t h e b o y s came and s a i d " T h e r e ' s somebody a t A k l a v i k t h a t knows you and w a n t s t o s e e y o u " and he p o i n t e d o u t t h e s c h o o n e r he w a s . i n . So I went down t o t h e s c h o o n e r . You had t o s l i d e t h e d o o r b a c k and go i n s i d e a s e v e r y t h i n g was down i n s i d e . H e r e was B i l l Day f r o m A t h a b a s c a L a n d i n g who f o r m e r l y I b e l i e v e had owned and r u n t h e G r a n d e Union Hotel a t Athabasca along with his w i f e . H o w e v e r s o m e t h i n g happened and t h e y q u a r r e l e d o r s o m e t h i n g and B i l l went n o r t h . B u t he was s u r e g l a d t o s e e me. Then he i n t r o d u c e d me t o h i s w i f e who was an E s k i m o woman and had t a t o o m a r k s f r o m h e r mouth down t o h e r c h i n . I n e v e r had s e e n a n y t h i n g l i k e t h a t b e f o r e so you c a n i m a g i n e what I was t h i n k i n g . H o w e v e r we w e n t b a c k t o F t . S m i t h and t h e p i l o t t h a t we had f o r some r e a s o n , s i c k n e s s o r w h a t e v e r , and he came b a c k and n e x t , o r t h i r d t r i p , down t h e f o l l o w i n g y e a r a n d I had been the D i s t r i b u t o r . P r i o r t o t h a t I was t h e f i r e m a n . I might e x p e r i e n c e s a s f i r e m a n b e f o r e I t e l l you a b o u t t h e p i l o t . had went o u t t o Edmonton he was on I b e l i e v e o u r p u t on a s s e c o n d mate on a l s o t e l l you a b o u t my I was w o r k i n g away and t h e c h i e f e n g i n e e r t h a t was p u t t i n g t h e m a c h i n e r y i n was D i c k Haus f r o m V i c t o r i a and a p p a r e n t l y he was e n g i n e e r on t h e b o a t r u n n i n g f r o m V a n c o u v e r t o V i c t o r i a and he had been l o a n e d t o t h e company t o h e l p g e t t h i s b o a t u n d e r c o n s t r u c t i o n and on i t s way. I was w o r k i n g on t h e b o i l e r a f t e r w a s h i n g i t a l l o u t and e v e r y t h i n g and p u t t i n g w h a t i s c a l l e d " h a n d h o l d c o v e r s " i n and g a s k e t s and t h e c h i e f came a l o n g and a s k e d me i f I knew a n y t h i n g a b o u t s e t t i n g t h e v a l v e s . I s a i d "I d o n ' t know t o o much b u t I have h e l p e d s e t t h e v a l v e s on an o l d t h r e s h i n g m a c h i n e o u t a t a saw m i l l a t Long L a k e " . So he a s k e d me how i t was done and I t o l d him t h a t u s i n g c a l i p h e r s and p u n c h m a r k s t h a t you w e r e a b l e t o s e t t h e v a l v e s a n d r e s e t t h e t i m i n g o f t h e v a l v e s on t h e e c c e n t r i c s t h a t way by u s i n g c a l i p h e r s and p u n c h m a r k s . So away he went and a f t e r a h i Ie he came a l o n g and I had my b a c k t u r n e d and he h i t me on t h e b a c k and he s a i d " B y g o l l y you g o t ' e r " . So he was v e r y , v e r y h a p p y . Then t h e y had a l o t o f t r o u b l e t r y i n g t o keep up s t e a m b e c a u s e had t w o d o o r s , o n e f o r wood and one f o r c o a l , a n d t h e r e was no i t was a b o i I e r whi ch f i r e w a l l w h i c h was O s c a r G r e e n , K a t y ( s t e w a r d e s s ) who l a t e r m a r r i e d Mickey Ryan. The o t h e r l a d y t h e c h i e f s t e w a r d e s s on t h e S l a v e R i v e r steamboat. S l i m D a v i s who l a t e r became S u p e r i n t e n d e n t o f M a c K e n z i e R i v e r T r a n s p o r t f o r Hudson Bay C o . n e e d e d i n s i d e t o keep t h e c o l d a i r f r o m g e t t i n g i n t h e f l u e s . And t h e wood! Nobody knew what s i z e t h e f i r e b o x was g o i n g t o be so t h e wood wa*s c u t t h e same a s i t had been c u t f o r t h e p r e v i o u s s t e a m b o a t s w h i c h was o n l y a b o u t 3 f o o t f i r e b o x . So you c a n i m a g i n e t r y i n g t o f i r e a f i r e b o x a b o u t s e v e n f e e t l o n g and a b o u t 4 f e e t w i d e and t r y i n g t o keep up s t e a m and no a s b e s t o s c o v e r i n g o v e r t h e b o i l e r w h i c h i s n e c e s s a r y . However I d i d v e r y w e l l b u t t h e o t h e r f i r e m e n d i d n ' t h a v e s u c h good l u c k and i t was r e a l hard work. We w o r k e d f o u r h o u r s on and e i g h t o f f s o y o u c a n i m a g i n e how h a r d we w o r k e d and we b u r n e d f r o m t h r e e t o t h r e e a n d one h a l f c o r d o f wood an h o u r . Anyway, i t was t h e n e x t y e a r t h e y p u t i n t h e f i r e w a l l s w h i c h h e l p e d q u i t e a b i t . Now I w i l l go b a c k t o t h e p i l o t . I b e l i e v e he was J a c k S t a r k b u t we had t w o p i l o t s - J a c k S t a r k and S l i m B a i n - so I'm n o t s u r e w h i c h one i t w a s . B u t anyway t h a t y e a r L had been p u t on a s s e c o n d mate and i t was a b o u t 12 o r 1 o ' c l o c k a t n i g h t a n d t h e r e was m y s e l f and t h e e n g i n e e r and p i l o t on d u t y . The b o a t was l i f t i n g up on t h e l e f t s i d e and s w a y i n g . So a s I was a c t u a l l y i n c h a r g e o f t h e b o a t I t o l d t h e e n g i n e e r t o r e v e r s e t h e p a d d l e w h e e l , t h a t we w e r e g o i n g t o go c r o s s w a y s i n t h e r i v e r and h i t the shore. He s a y s "I c a n ' t w i t h o u t a b e l l and t h e r e was no way o r n o t h i n g t h a t I c o u l d c l i m b up and r i n g t h e b e l l . Had I been a b l e t o c l i m b up and r i n g t h e b e l l , he w o u l d h a v e been a b l e t o a n s w e r t h e b e l l a c c o r d i n g l y . So I had t o r u n , a l l t h e way up t o t h e p i l o t h o u s e w h i c h i s t w o d e c k s up - you have t h e promenade d e c k , t h e T e x a s d e c k , and t h e n t h e p i l o t h o u s e . I r a n a l l t h e way up t h e s e s t a i r s t o f i n d t h e p i l o t had g o n e t o s l e e p and a s t h e b o a t was c o n t r o l l e d by s t e a m s t e e r i n g , t h e w e i g h t o f h i s h a n d s and arm on t h e s t e e r i n g had c a u s e d t h e b o a t t u r n in t h e r i v e r he had g o n e to sleep. So I woke him up, he t o o k a q u i c k l o o k b u t he was s m a r t e n o u g h n o t t o push t h e s t e e r i n g t o o f a r and t h e b o a t went o v e r and h i t t h e s h o r e a g l a n c i n g b l o w . You c o u l d f e e l t h e w h o l e s t r u c t u r e c r e a k and c r a c k a s i t h i t t h e b a n k . However no dama g e was d o n e and we went on o u r way. Coming b a c k f r o m o u r l a s t t r i p t o A k l a v i k , between F t . Norman and F t . W r i g l e y I b e l i e v e i t w a s , t h e w a t e r was q u i t e low a n d we w e r e l a t e and t r y i n g t o make t i m e and a s t h e b o a t p u s h e s a c e r t a i n amount o f w a t e r a h e a d o f i t , we r a n i n t o a h o l e i n t h e s a n d b a r o r a g r a v e l b a r , b u t we w e r e v e r y l u c k y t h a t t h e c a p t a i n on t h e b o a t had p r e v i o u s e x p e r i e n c e on t h e M i s s i s s i p p i R i v e r so he had a l r e a d y a c c u m u l a t e d what l o o k e d l i k e t e l e p h o n e p o l e s and u s e d them a s s p a r s w i t h p u l l e y s on t o p and c a b l e s t o t h e s t e a m wench and we s e t t w o on e a c h s i d e and a c t u a l l y l i f t e d t h e b o a t up and w a l k e d i t o u t b a c k w a r d s d o w n s t r e a m by r u n n i n g t h e e n g i n e In r e v e r s e and t h e p a d d l e wheel t h r o w i n g w a t e r u n d e r n e a t h t h e b o a t , we managed t o g e t o u t and g e t b a c k i n t o a c h a n n e l and had no more t r o u b l e g e t t i n g b a c k t o F t . S m i t h . Wel I o n e o f t h e t r i p s when I was s e c o n d mate and I had g o n e t o bed and t h e y had s t o p p e d t o l o a d wood and f o r some r e a s o n o r o t h e r t h e c r e w w e n t on s t r i k e . They w o u l d n ' t l o a d a n y m o r e wood so t h e c a p t a i n s e n t t h e f i r s t mate t o c a l l me. So I went down. T h i s was s h o r t l y a f t e r b r e a k f a s t i n t h e m o r n i n g . I went down and o r d e r e d some b r e a k f a s t f r o m t h e c o o k who I knew v e r y w e l l b e c a u s e I had h e l p e d him s o m e t i m e s when he was q u i t e b u s y . So I knew a l i t t l e b i t a b o u t i t and we knew e a c h o t h e r . Anyway he p u t t o g e t h e r a b r e a k f a s t f o r me and I s t a r t e d t o e a t and t h e n o n e o f t h e b o y s who was on s t r i k e s a i d "How a b o u t me"? I s a i d " S u r e , you want some b r e a k f a s t ? " So I o r d e r e d some f o r h i m . He s a t and a t e and I d i d n ' t s a y a n y t h i n g b u t I went o u t and s t a r t e d p a c k i n g wood o n t o t h e b o a t and s t a r t e d s i n g i n g an o l d song " J e r a , J e r a , G e e . Gee, J a z z " , something l i k e t h a t . F i r s t t h i n g I knew t h e w h o l e bunch o f them f e l l i n and s t a r t e d p a c k i n g wood and t h a t was t h e end o f t h e s t r i k e . H o w e v e r t h a t f a l l i t was t o o l a t e and t h e y w e r e p u l l i n g a l l o f t h e b o a t s o u t o f t h e w a t e r and we c o u l d n ' t t a k e t h e s t e a m b o a t down t h e r i v e r a n y m o r e . B u t t h e y had a few t h i n g s t h a t came l a t e t h a t t h e y had t o d e l i v e r t o t h e p o s t s a l o n g t h e way, a l s o t o t a k e t h e m a i l down t o F t . Norman and F t . Good H o p e . So t h e y c a l l e d f o r v o l u n t e e r s . N o t k n o w i n g v e r y much a b o u t t h e N o r t h and t h a t and b e i n g q u i t e i n q u i s i t i v e , I volunteered. T h e r e was a n o t h e r boy t h e r e who was a r e t u r n e d s o l d i e r who was a b o u t o n e - q u a r t e r I n d i a n I t h i n k who was named T u f f y B r a s s e a u . So I a s k e d him i f he w a n t e d t o go w i t h me and he s a i d " Y e s , I w o u l d . " So t h e y g o t b u s y and t h e y b u i l t a s m a l l scow a b o u t 30 f e e t l o n g and a b o u t 8 f e e t w i d e and t h e y a l s o b u i l t hand pumps a s was n o r m a l - t h e y d i d t h i s w i t h a l l t h e s c o w s t h a t w e r e made t o pump o u t t h e w a t e r . So we w e r e l o a d e d u p . B u t p r i o r t o t h a t we w e r e t a k e n up t o F t . C h i p e w y a n o n t h e o l d S l a v e R i v e r s t e a m b o a t and d r o p p e d o f f andwe b r o u g h t a l i f e b o a t down f r o m F t . Chipewyan " - F i t z g e r a l d w h i c h b e l o n g e d t o t h e D i s t r i b u t o r and b r o u g h t some g o o d s t h a t we had t o t a k e w i t h u s . However n e i t h e r o n e o f us had p a i d v e r y much a t t e n t i o n t o t h e r i v e r s and t h a t b e c a u s e we w e r e n o t p i l o t s . W e l l I happened t o be r u n n i n g t h e o u t b o a r d m o t o r on t h i s l i f e b o a t and we came t o a s p o t w h e r e t h e r e was a r a p i d s r i g h t a c r o s s what i s c a l l e d S l a v e R i v e r ( t h a t i s t h e c o n t i n u a t i o n of t h e Peace R i v e r ) n o r m a l l y you go b e h i n d an i s l a n d h e r e . I ' l l t e l l you more a b o u t t h i s i s l a n d and t h e f a I Is I a t e r o n . t o F_t When t a k i n g t h e l i f e b o a t down we came upon t h i s - n o t k n o w i n g b e c a u s e we i d n ' t know t h e r i v e r w e l l e n o u g h . H o w e v e r we g o t t h r o u g h f i n e and went b a c k t o F t . S m i t h and g o t o u r t h i n g s l o a d e d and e v e r y t h i n g f o r t h e N o r t h . We s t a r t e d o f f and we g o t down t h e r i v e r a b o u t 8 m i l e s andwe met t h e D i s t r i b u t o r c o m i n g b a c k w h i c h had made a q u i c k r u n down s o m e p l a c e and b a c k a g a i n - I b e l i e v e i t was R e s o l u t i o n . The c a p t a i n b l e w t h e w h i s t l e and had us come a l o n g s i d e and said__^Where a r e you g o i n g ? " "We're going t o Ft. Norman". He s a i d " Y o u a r e l i k e " He s a i d " P u l l a l o n g s i d e ' Make ' e m f a s t b o y s " He t o o k us b a c k t o F t . S m i t h and w h i l e he was s t i l l i n t h e p i l o t h o u s e Tommy Woodman who was a s u p e r i n t e n t e n t f r o m F t . C h i p e w y a n - he r e a l l y b a w l e d him o u t . - 1 T h e y had a I r e a d y t a k e n t h i s g a s b o a t o u t and p u t i t a s h o r e b u t he made t h e m l o a d t h e b o a t s b a c k i n f o t h e w a t e r and t a k e us s u p p o s e d l y a c r o s s G r e a t S l a v e L a k e t o P r o v i d e n c e w h e r e t h e y w e r e g o i n g t o t u r n us l o o s e a g a i n . So we g o t o f f and we g o t t o R e s o l u t i o n o k a y . T h e r e was n o t t o o much s h e l t e r a t R e s o l u t i o n but t h e r e i s a long dock r u n n i n g o u t i n t o t h e l a k e . Anyway we s t a r t e d o f f f r o m R e s o l u t i o n t> P r o v i d e n c e w h i c h we have t o c r o s s G r e a t S l a v e L a k e and we u s u a l l y go by Hay R i v e r and a c r o s s t o W r i g e l y H a r b o u r and on t o P r o v i d e n c e . We g o t o u t a ways t o w h a t i s known a s B u r n t I s l a n d and t h e r e we s t a y e d . We w e r e t h e r e f o r t w o t o t h r e e weeks. We c o u l d n ' t go o u t on a c c o u n t o f t h e s t o r m , so y o u c a n i m a g i n e how l u c k y we a r e t h a t t h e C a p t a i n had e n o u g h s e n s e t o make s u r e t h a t t h e y l a u n c h e d t h i s b o a t and t o o k us a t l e a s t a s f a r a s P r o v i d e n c e . H o w e v e r , when we f i n a l l y g o t t o P r o v i d e n c e we had q u i t e a b i t o f t r o u b l e . We w e r e c r o s s i n g f r o m Hay R i v e r t o W r i g e l y H a r b o u r and a v e r y l i g h t head w i n d . We w e r e on a b o u t an 80 f o o t t o w l i n e and t h e w a v e s k n o c k e d t h e oakum o u t f r o m t h e n e w l y b u i l t b o a t and w a t e r was p o u r i n g i n f a s t e r t h a n we c o u l d pump i t o u t . We c o u l d n ' t make t h e m h e a r and n o b o d y l o o k e d so my p a r t n e r , he s a y s " I ' m g o i n g t o s h o o t o f f t h e r i f l e " . So he f i r e d a s h o t and n o t h i n g h a p p e n e d . So he f i r e d a n o t h e r s h o t and n o t h i n g happened. We c o u l d s e e t h e p i l o t s i t t i n g up t h e r e and t h e sun was s h i n i n g and he was s t e e r i n g w i t h h i s f e e t j We c o u l d s e e him t h r o u g h t h e b a c k window o f t h e p i l o t h o u s e but nobody looked back. J u s t a s he f i r e d t h e n e x t s h o t t h e p i l o t o p e n e d t h e d o o r b u t when he h e a r d t h e s h o t he c l o s e d i t b a c k q u i c k l y j Then he l o o k e d b a c k and we waved him down. So t h e n when t h e y s t o p p e d t h e b o a t , p u l l e d us a l o n g s i d e and t h e y had a few empty b a r r e l s t h a t t h e y were t a k i n g down w h i c h t h e y w o u l d l o a d o n t o o u r ' boat. T h e y had b u r n t up g a s I n l a n d * some e m p t i e s t h e y w e r e t a k i n g a n y w a y . So t h e y t o o k a l l t h e s t u f f o f f o f o u r scow and p u t i t on t h e b o a t w h i c h was a b o u t 80 f e e t l o n g and p u t t h e b a r r e l s on o u r scow and r o p e d t h e m down and l e f t us t h e r e t o pump w a t e r u n t i l we g o t t o P r o v i d e n c e . _ _ _ , ^ m A f F T o v i d e n c e t h e y had o u r b o a t p u l l e d o u t and had i t f i x e d . There they were supp o s e d t o l e a v e us and send us on o u r own on t h e M a c K e n z i e R i v e r . H o w e v e r somehow t h e r e was a w i r e l e s s t h e r e o r s o m e t h i n g t e l l i n g them t o t a k e us a l l t h e way t o t h e F t . Norman o i l w e l l w h i c h t h e y d i d . So we a r r i v e d f i n e a t F t . Norman o tI we I I b u t we w e r e on o u r own a g a i n . We had a r o u n d 200 m i l e s t o go t o F t . Good Hope down t h r o u g h I b e l i e v e t h e y c a l l i f Sand Sue R a p i d s w h i c h i s more o r l e s s s h a l l o w l i m e s t o n e b o t t o m but not t o o dangerous. H o w e v e r j u s t a b o v e F t . Good Hope i s t h e v e r y r o u g h w a t e r b u t we g o t t h e r e o k a y . We had a c h o i c e - we c o u l d c u t wood o r we c o u l d go t r a p p i n g . They had g i v e n us an o r d e r t h a t a t a l l t h e p o s t s we c o u l d p i c k up a n y t h i n g we w a n t e d a s we w e n t a l o n g . So we had p i c k e d up some t r a p s and a m m u n i t i o n , e t c . 3 We l e f t F t . Good Hope and we w e n t a r o u n d 55 m i l e s down r i v e r f r o m F t . Good Hope and we saw a l i t t l e b i t o f t imber t h e r e - t h e b i g g e s t t r e e s w e r e a r o u n d f o u r o r f i v e inches in d i a m e t e r . H o w e v e r , we t h o u g h t we c o u l d s t o p t h e r e and c u t w o o d . We c u t a l i t t l e wood and t h e n we s t a r t e d t r a p p i n g b e c a u s e i t was t h e b e g i n n i n g o f O c t o b e r t h e n and t h e r e t h e f r o s t i s o n l y o u t a b o u t f o r o r f i v e i n c h e s in t h e moss and u n d e r neath is f r o z e n . We had t o b u i l d a c a b i n and so f o r t h and s o o n . Then d u r i n g the w i n t e r t h e r e was an I n d i a n f a m i l y w h i c h l i v e d d i r e c t l y a c r o s s t h e M a c K e n z i e R i v e r f r o m us w h i c h was a b o u t 4 m i l e s w i d e a t t h a t p o i n t . We s t a r t e d t r a d i n g a l i t t l e g o o d s f o r f u r f r o m t h e I n d i a n s , n o t k n o w i n g t h e c u s t o m s o f t h e N o r t h , and my p a r t n e r had had a l i t t l e experience trapping. We w e r e c a t c h i n g f o x e s and m a r t e n s and m u s t r a t s g a l l o r e and we r u n o u t o f t o b a c c o and we t r i e d e v e r y t h i n g . We t r i e d t e a , c o f f e e , w i l l o w b a r k , e v e r y t h i n g b u t i t d i d n ' t s a t i s f y o u r want f o r t o b a c c o . The C a t h o l i c M i s s i o n p r i e s t a t F t . Good Hope had g i v e us t h r e e d o g s ( o r l o a n e d us I s h o u l d s a y ) t h r e e d o g s , h a r n e s s , t o b o g g a n , t w o c a n o e s . So we h o o k e d up t h e d o g s and went t h e 55 m i l e s t o g e t t o b a c c o . T h e r e was r o u g h i c e , high r i d g e s of i c e , e t c . We had t o make l a t e r t r i p s t o o a s we f o u n d o u t t o o u r s o r r o w t h a t we w e r e n o t a l l o w e d t o t r a d e w i t h t h e I n d i a n s and we w e r e L a n s o n H u b b a r d e m p l o y e e s and we w e r e t r a d i n g w i t h Hudson Bay I n d i a n s w h i c h was g e t t i n g t h e manager o f t h e s t o r e i n t r o u b l e b e c a u s e o f w h a t we w e r e d o i n g . So he w o u l d n ' t g i v e us a n y m o r e than a month's supply. I s a i d "How a b o u t t f i e s h a n d i n g o r d e r I g o t h e r e ? You a r e s u p p o s e d t o f u r n i s h us w i t h w h a t e v e r we w a n t " . " Y e s " , he s a i d , "I know y o u ' v e g o t i t . I ' v e r e a d i t , b u t t o e n f o r c e i t t h e c l o s e s t p o l i c e m a n i s F t . M c P h e r s o n and by t h e t i m e you go down t h e r e and g e t b a c k h e r e i t w i l l be s p r i n g and I w o n ' t c a r e " . Then he t o l d me how we w e r e g e t t i n g him i n t r o u b l e by t r a d i n g w i t h t h e I n d i a n s . So t h a t meant a b o u t e v e r y 30 d a y s we had t o make a t r i p t o F t . Good Hope and b a c k w h i c h was a b o u t a r o u n d 110 m i l e s by d o g t e a m . c 7 D n I w W .j L a t e r on my p a r t n e r T u f f y B r a z e a u t h o u g h t he was s i c k and had t o s e e a d o c t o r . The c l o s e s t d o c t o r was a t F t . M c P h e r s o n a n o t h e r t w o h u n d r e d m i l e s f u r t h e r down t h e r i v e r . By t h i s t i m e t h e r e was a few f e e t o f w a t e r r u n n i n g a l o n g t h e edge o f t h e i c e - between t h e bank and t h e i c e on t h e M a c K e n z i e - so we s t a r t e d o f f . We g o t down a p p r o x i m a t e l y 50 m i l e s w h e r e t h e Y u k o n e r s had camped i n 1898 and t h e r e was an I n d i a n f a m i l y l i v i n g there. D u r i n g t h e n i g h t t h e i c e b r o k e up and s t a r t e d f l o w i n g i n t h e r i v e r so we w e r e m a r o o n e d t h e r e a r o u n d t w o weeks o r s o . We w e r e r u n n i n g o u t o f f o o d . T h e r e were l o t s o f d u c k s and g e e s e so we w e r e I i v i n g s o l e y on w i l d d u c k and g e e s e and t h i s e l d e r l y I n d i a n s e n t me and h i s w i f e f r o m t h e h o u s e a b o u t 30 f e e t by t h e r i v e r b a n k She p u l l e d up w h a t l o o k e d l i k e a l i t t l e bush and s t a r t e d t o e a t t h e r o o t s and handed t h e m t o me t o e a t . I a t e some and i t t a s t e d s o m e t h i n g l i k e s w e e t p o t a t o e s so I t o o k i f b a c k t o t h e c a b i n and t h i s e l d e r l y I n d i a n t o l d me t h a t i f w h i t e man w o u l d e a t t h a t r o o t we w o u l d n ' t g e t s i c k . I assumed t h a t was s c u r v y a s most p e o p l e had d i e d f r o m s c u r v y when j u s t e a t i n g meat w i t h o u t any f l o u r o r a n y t h i n g t o go w i t h i t . By t h e t i m e t h e i c e went o u t my p a r t n e r t h o u g h t he was a l r i g h t and so we went back u p s t r e a m to our c a b i n . S h o r t l y a f t e r w a r d s up comes a man f r o m F t . M c P h e r s o n w h i c h we knew p e r s o n a l l y f r o m t h e o l d Slave R i v e r steamboat. We c a l l e d him T i n y G i f f o r d a s he was f a i r l y l a r g e and p r o b a b l y w e i g h e d a r o u n d 300 p o u n d s . Here I should mention about T i n y G i f f o r d . He a p p a r e n t l y came f r o m O n t a r i o and was a v e r y c a p a b l e c a n o e man and someone had g o t h i m t o v o l u n t e e r t o t a k e l i f e b o a t s o f t h e D i s t r i b u t o r down t h r o u g h S m i t h R a p i d s w h i c h were r a p i d s and n e a r l y i m p o s s i b l e . H o w e v e r , my p a r t n e r and I d i d n ' t know t h i s and h a d n ' t seen t h e r a p i d s n o r a n y t h i n g . However, t h e y t o o k T i n y down t o l o o k a t t h e r a p i d s and a f t e r he l o o k e d a t t h e r a p i d s he j u s t s a i d he d i d n ' t want t o t a k e t h e b o a t s t h r o u g h . However we t r i e d e v e r y way t o g e t him t o t a k e t h e b o a t s t h r o u g h b u t he w o u l d n o t do s o . We d i d n ' t know a t t h a t t i m e how l u c k y we w e r e f o r t h e r e was no o n e , I n d i a n s o r a n y o n e , who r u n s t h e r a p i d s . Tliere is a s i x t e e n m i l e p o r t a g e b e t w e e n S m i t h and F i t z g e r a l d . So T i n y G i f f o r d t o l d us a b o u t t h e b i g boom a t F t . Norman and a l l you had t o do was d r i v e a s t a k e i n t h e g r o u n d and go up t o F t . Norman and s e l l y o u r c l a i m . So we l e f t e v e r y t h i n g b e h i n d and s t a r t e d o f f and i f I remember c o r r e c t l y we t o o k t h e d o g s i n t h e c a n o e up t o Good Hope and t h e r e we a r r a n g e d t o send somebody down t o p i c k up t h e c a n o e and s l e i g h b e c a u s e t h a t b e l o n g e d t o t h e m i s s i o n a t F t . Good Hope. We went on t o F t . Norman and s t a k e d c l a i m s w h e r e t h e o i l w e l l s a r e t h e r e 50 m i l e s b e l o w F t . Norman i t s e l f. Wlien we g o t up t o F t . Norman we w e r e o f f e r e d $ 3 0 , 0 0 0 a p i e c e f o r o u r c l a i m s and a l l we had done was f i l e o u r names and l o c a t i o n and so f o r t h and d r i v e s t a k e s i n t h e g r o u n d . B u t t h e r e was o t h e r p e o p l e t h e r e who t o l d us we w e r e O o I i s h t o s e l l t h e m a t t h a t p r i c e when a t F t . S m i t h you c o u l d g e t two o r t h r e e imes t h a t p r i c e . So we d i d n ' t s e l l them and we w a i t e d t h e r e f o r t h e D i s t r i b u t o r t o come down. So t h e D i s t r i b u t o r t o o k us on t o A k l a v i k and b a c k t o F t . S m i t h . By t h e t i m e we g o t t o F t . S m i t h you c o u l d n ' t e v e n s e l l t h e c l a i m s f o r $ 1 . 0 0 . So we n e v e r g o t a n y money o u t o f o u r c l a i m s a f t e r i l l o u r t r o u b l e . c F i n a l l y when t h e d e p r e s s i o n came and I had gone b r o k e i n t h e b u s i n e s s I was i n , I w e n t down t o t h e H u d s o n ' s Bay and a p p l i e d f o r a j o b . They had a l r e a d y h i r e d most o f t h e c r e w and I w a s n ' t g e t t i n g a n y p l a c e . C a p t a i n S m e l l y was t h e r e d o i n g t h e h i r i n g and I d i d n ' t Know him a t t h a t t i m e . I t o o k h o l d o f t h e h a n d l e o f t h e d o o r and was l e a v i n g and C a p t a i n H a i g h t came i n . He was v e r y s u r p r i z e d t h a t I was t h e r e . He a s k e d me what I was d o i n g t h e r e and I t o l d him t h a t I was l o o k i n g f o r a j o b . Captain Smelley s a y s " Y o u know t h i s b o y ? " He s a y s " S u r e I know h i m . I raised him!" So anyway t o make a l o n g s t o r y s h o r t , I g o t a j o b . I was s e n t b a c k a t t h e e a r l i e s t p o s s i b l e t i m e and when I l a n d e d a t F t . M c M u r r a y who do I f i n d i n c h a r g e e x c e p t S l i m D a v i s . As I s a i d b e f o r e S l i m D a v i s came down on Ithe D.A. Thomas a s a p u r s e r f o r t h e S l a v e R i v e r Steamboat and t h a t ' s t h e l a s t I e v e r h e a r d o f him u n t i l I met him' h e r e a s S u p e r i n t e n d e n t o f the Mackenzie River Transport. However he was v e r y g l a d t o s e e me and I was g l a d t o see him. So I w e n t down and h e l p e d him p r e p a r e t h e A t h a b a s c a R i v e r t o go i n t h e w a t e r and run one o f t h e h o i s t e n g i n e s l o w e r i n g t h e b o a t i n t o t h e edge o f t h e w a t e r . i t had t h r e e s e t s , f o u r s e t s I b e l i e v e i t w a s , o f c a b l e s w i t h a l l k i n d s o f h e a v y r o p e t i e d and you l e t i t down s o f a r on t h e w a y s , t h e n a t a s i g n a l e v e r y b o d y c u t t h e s e r o p e s and e t i t s l i d e into the water. 1 In my a b s e n c e D a v i s had been a v e r y i m p o r t a n t man w i t h t h e H u d s o n ' s Bay C o . and I w o r k e d I be I i e v e t w o y e a r s o r more w i t h h i m . In f a c t he t o o k me o f f o f t h e b o a t w i t h some ("rouble a t F t . Morman w h e r e t h e e n g i n e e r a t t h a t t i m e , I b e l i e v e h i s name was M a v i s , he w o u l d n ' t l e t me go u n l e s s D a v i s w o u l d p r o m i s e t o pay me q u i t e a b i t more t h a n I was g e t t i n g on t h e b o a t - on t h e D i s t r i b u t o r . H o w e v e r t h a t was a r r a n g e d . I had n o t h i n g t o s a y a b o u t i t . So t h e y t o o k me o f f and I f o u n d o u t l a t e r D a v i s a l o n g w i t h some o t h e r p e r s o n had o v e r h a u l e d o n e o f t h e e n g i n e s and u I d h ' t 9 e t i t t o run p r o p e r l y . So I s a t down and f o u n d o u t f r o m D a v i s e x a c t l y w h a t t h e y had d o n e , t h o u g h t i t o v e r , and went t o ,work on i t and g o t i t b a c k t o i t ' s n o r m a l c o n d i t i o n where i t c o u l d push f r e i g h t t h a t i f c o u l d n ' t h a n d l e o t h e r w i s e . C O "' LAST OF THE STEAMBOATS. 1924 - IQdd" I t h i n k I have m i s s e d some o f t h e i m p o r t a n t t h i n g s t h a t w o u l d be i n t e r e s t i n g t o a n y o n e k n o w i n g t h e n o r t h o r t r a v e l l i n g t h e n o r t h and one o f them was I was s e n t j t , t h i s was on t h e s e c o n d t i m e when I was e m p l o y e d up n o r t h i n 1921 o r s o and i was w o r k i n g f r o m F t . Norman up t o B e a r L a k e and i n l e a v i n g Hudson Bay w a r e h o u s e we had a c a p t a i n f r o m V a n c o u v e r who had n e v e r been t h e r e ( o r n e v e r been a c r o s s G r e a t S l a v e L a k e ) and t h e man i n c h a r g e a t F t . S m i t h t o l d t h e c a p t a i n who was p u t i n c h a r g e o f a w h o l e b u n c h o f s m a l l b o a t s and I was e n g i n e e r on one o f them - one o f t h e b i g g e r o n e s and I was i n c h a r g e o f a l l t h e e n g i n e e r s and t h e e n g i n e e r i n g p a r t o f t h e b o a t s b u t had a l o t o f p r i o r e x p e r i e n c e on t h e l a k e . I f he w a n t e d more i n f o r m a t i o n he was t o g e t i t f r o m me. So t h e c a p t a i n a s k e d me i n l e a v i n g F t . R e s o l u t i o n w h i c h way t o go and so f o r t h and t h e n I went t o l a y down t o g e t some s l e e p . I s l e p t f o r a c o u p l e o f h o u r s and t h e n t h e c a p t a i n came and c a l l e d me and s a i d "Come o n , I w a n t you t o l o o k and s e e how we a r e d o i n g " . P r i o r t o t h a t I had t o l d him t o head o u t f o r B u r n t I s l a n d , t h e n f o l l o w t h e s h o r e l i n e t o t h e l e f t u n t i l he p i c k e d up t h e b a u y a t Hay R i v e r , t h e n t o t u r n r i g h t and f o l l o w t h e s h o r e l i n e , b e i n g a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30 m i l e s o f f s h o r e , u n t i l he p i c k e d up t h e bouy and W r i g e l y H a r b o u r , t h e n t o t a k e t h a t c h a n n e l down t o Providence. Then he w o u l d be on t h e M a c k e n z i e R i v e r . However t h e r e was a y o u n g f e l l o w who had been w i t h t h e N o r t h e r n T r a n s p o r t a t i o n Company p r i o r t o t h e Hudson Bay and t h e y had a s c h o o n e r . They u s e d t o go s t r a i g h t a c r o s s from B u r n t I s l a n d t o W r i g e l y Harbour. H o w e v e r , when I l o o k e d a r o u n d , t h e r e was no l a n d i n s i g h t and t h e r e was no w i n d , i t was v e r y q u i e t and c a l m , t h e y w e r e d o i n g fine. So I s a i d " W e l l you seem t o be d o i n g a l r i g h t " . He t o l d me what had h a p p e n e d , t h a t he was g o i n g t o make a l i t t l e b e t t e r t i m e t h a t way. So a f t e r a n o t h e r h o u r o r s o we g o t a s l i g h t w i n d and t h e w i n d i n c r e a s e d and t h e f i r s t t h i n g we know we r a n n t o a f l o w o f i c e m o v i n g down t h e m i d d l e o f G r e a t S l a v e L a k e . I t was m o v i n g v e r y l o w l y , t h e c u r r e n t w o u l d t a k e i t i n t o t h e M a c K e n z i e and on down t h e M a c k e n z i e . So I s a i d " W e ' r e r i g h t on c o u r s e ? " He s a i d " I ' m s u r e o f i t " . I s a i d ' WeII i f y o u r s u r e o f i t you may a s w e l l keep r i g h t o n . However t h e b o a t s were m o s t l y t u n n e l b o a t s w i t h p r o p e l l e r s and we s t a r t e d g e t t i n g i c e i n t o t h e t u n n e l s so we had t o c u t t h e s p e e d down and we had t o g e t a c r e w o u t w i t h p o l e s p u s h i n g i c e o u t o f t h e r o a d and I t h i n k i t was a b o u t t w o m i l e s a c r o s s t h i s f l o w o f i c e b u t by t h e t i m e we g o t t h r o u g h t h i s i c e t h e w i n d had g o t q u i t e s t r o n g and t h e w a v e s w e r e g e t t i n g f a i r l y h i g h and t h e c a p t a i n w i t h h i s f i e l d g l a s s e s p i c k e d up s i g h t o f l a n d t o t h e r i g h t o f h i s p r e s e n t c o u r s e and i t l o o k e d j u s t e x a c t l y l i k e t h e e n t r a n c e i n t o W r i g e l y Harbour. He a s k e d me w h a t I t h o u g h t and I t o l d him I d i d n ' t know. So he g o t h o l d o f t h i s y o u n g f e l l o w and he t o l d him i t was W r i g e l y H a r b o u r - t h a t he must h a v e somehow in the wind got o f f c o u r s e . T f So he swung t o t h e r i g h t and headed i n p a s t t h e i s l a n d l i k e we w o u l d have done a t W r i g e l y H a r b o u r b u t s h o r t l y a f t e r w a r d s we run i n t o low w a t e r and s t o n e s and s t u f f , b e n t t h e p r o p e l l e r and s h a f t . L u c k y I had p u t an e x t r a s h a f t and p r o p e l l e r on t h i s p a r t i c u l a r boat. So t h e n he d e c i d e d t h a t we w e r e l o s t . . . . s o we s t a r t e d up t h e l i t t l e r a p i d b o a t s and we g o t up t o an i s l a n d w h e r e t h e b o a t I was on we ! had a l i t t l e b l o c k and t a c k l e . We managed t o p u l l i t up o n t o t h e s h o r e and p r y i t up so t h a t t h e p r o p e l l e r and t h e s t r u t and t h e s h a f t w e r e up a b o v e t h e w a t e r l e v e l w h i c h meant you had t o t a k e o f f y o u r c l o t h e s , go i n t h e w a t e r u n d e r t h e b o a t and see what t h e t r o u b l e was. So we f o u n d t h a t t h e b a b b i t t i n t h e s t r u t had been c o m p l e t e l y k n o c k e d o u t . So we had t o c h a n g e t h e s h a f t and t h e p r o p e l l e r b u t we a l s o had t o run new b a b b i t and hat is c a l l e d the s t r u t . The s t r u t i s w h e r e t h e s h a f t g o e s t h r o u g h and t h e p r o p e l l e r in on b e h i n d i t . T h e r e was no one t h e r e , even m y s e l f , who had had much t o do w i t h r u n n i n g b a b b i t t b e a r i n g s a l t h o u g h I had had some e x p e r i e n c e . I was v e r y l u c k y when l e a v i n g F t . S m i t h t h a t t h e man i n c h a r g e , I f o r g o t h i s name., had t o l d me t o go o u t i n t h e b | c k s m i t h s h o p and l o o k a r o u n d and a n y t h i n g I c o u l d f i n d t h a t I m i g h t a need t o t a k e a l o n g . I f o u n d s e v e r a l b a r s o f b a b b i t t and I f o u n d a l a d l e , so t h e m a l o n g , n e v e r t h i n k i n g t h a f I w o u l d use them b u t was s u r e l u c k y I d i d . Repairing the s t r u t s h a f t on o u r way to W r i g e l y Harbour "IKljifc''. I took ^SS^S^tSS^ On t h i s p a r t i c u l a r v o y a g e I was l u c k y t h a t I had g o t a j o b on t h e b o a t s w i t h m y s e l f and t w o b o y s f r o m Edmonton w h i c h I knew v e r y w e l l . One o f t h e m was Benny A y r who was l a t e r k i l l e d i n t h e l a s t war and t h e o t h e r was Doug J o h n s o n who I b e l i e v e i s f a r m i n g out a t F l a t b u s h someplace. Anyway t h e y g o t on t o g e t h e r and we g o t e v e r y t h i n g f i x e d up and so t h e c a p t a i n s a y s "Now, you go w i t h t h i s boy (who had been a mate and r e a l l y was a c a p t a i n f r o m V a n c o u v e r ) a n d o n e o t h e r b o y . You t a k e o n e o f t h e r a p i d b o a t s and go o u t i n t o t h e l a k e and you go t o y o u r r i g h t . You t r a v e l e x a c t l y t w o h o u r s , no m o r e , no l e s s . If you d o n ' t f i n d a n y t h i n g , you come b a c k and r e p o r t t o m e " . Mind you we a v e no r a d i o s , no means o f c o m m u n i c a t i o n w h a t s o e v e r and a i r p l a n e s w e r e o n l y g e t t i n g s t a r t e d i n t h a t c o u n t r y so you c o u l d n ' t l o o k f o r t h e m . H o w e v e r , we t r a v e l l e d t h e t w o h o u r s and we s e t o u r w a t c h e s w i t h t h e c a p t a i n ' s and t h i s mate o r c a p t a i n t h a t was s u p p o s e d t o be i n c h a r g e a l o n g w i t h me, I t o l d him " O u r two h o u r s i s up. What do we do n o w ? " He s a y s , " W e l l , I d o n ' t know. W e ' r e s u p p o s e d t o go b a c k . He t o l d us t o go b a c k b u t I t h i n k we s h o u l d go on t i l l we f i n d s o m e t h i n g . T h e r e ' s no p o i n t i n going back". So m y s e l f and t h e o t h e r p a r t y w i t h us a g r e e d t h a t we s h o u l d go o n . Anyway we went on and we t r a v e l l e d and f i n a l Iy we came t o w h e r e t h e r e was a c a b i n and a c o u p l e o f c a n o e s up o u t o f t h e w a t e r and we swung a r o u n d and we went i n t h e r e and we w e n t up t o t h e c a b i n . B u t nobody w o u l d a n s w e r t h e d o o r . We I i o l l e r e d and y e l l e d and done e v e r y t h i n g . W e l l t h e n I t o o k n o t i c e t h a t t h e d o o r was f a s t e n e d f r o m t h e i n s i d e so I t o o k t h e b o y s w i t h me and we w a l k e d up a c o u p l e o f h u n d r e d y a r d s o r so and I t o l d them w h a t I t h o u g h t . I s a i d " I ' m s u r e t h e r e ' s somebody i n s i d e b u t h e ' s a f r a i d o f u s . He's a f r a i d we're there t o r o b him o r s o m e t h i n g . You g u y s s t a y h e r e and I'm g o i n g go go b a c k and s e e i f I c a n ' t g e t him t o open t h e d o o r " . So I w e n t b a c k a l i t t l e ways and t h e n I h o l l e r e d b a c k t o t h e b o y s " I ' m g o i n g b a c k and t e l l t h i s man who we a r e and why w e ' r e h e r e " . So I w e n t o f f a b o u t f i f t y y a r d s more and h o l l e r e d b a c k t o t h e s e b o y s t h a t I was g o i n g t o t e l I t h i s man who we w e r e - t h a t we w e r e w i t h t h e Hudson Bay Company and we w e r e l o s t and so f o r t h . T h e y s t a y e d away o f f and s u r e enough we w e r e l u c k y . Ttie man o p e n e d t h e d o o r , j u s t a l i t t l e b i t , j u s t e n o u g h t o t a l k t o me. So I t o l d him t h e s t o r y and a s k e d him w h e r e we w e r e and he t o l d me t h a f w h e r e we went was i n t o S u l p h u r B a y , 30 miles off course. Now t h e c a p t a i n had been r i g h t on c o u r s e . Had he n o t l i s t e n e d t o h i s o t h e r y o u n g f e l l o w he w o u l d have went t o W r i g e l y H a r b o u r w i t h o u t a n y t r o u b l e . H o w e v e r , he was s c a r e d on a c c o u n t o f t h e w i n d s and w a v e s and he had t u r n e d o f f c o u r s e . H o w e v e r , we had g o n e a g a i n s t he o r d e r s b u t we had f o u n d o u t w h e r e we w e r e . So away b a c k we w e n t and we w e r e happy and r e c o r d e d what t h e s t o r y was. He was p r e t t y mad b u t he c o u l d n ' t s a y n o t h i n g b e c a u s e we had f o u n d o u t w h e r e we w e r e by g o i n g a g a i n s t his wishes. So f r o m t h e r e on e v e r y t h i n g went f i n e and we g o t t o F t . Norrnan w i t h o u t any f u r t h e r t r o u b l e s . L IVe I l , t a l k i n g a b o u t G r e a t S l a v e L a k e i n 1919, I s h o u l d t e l l you a b o u t t h e f i r s t t r i p with the D i s t r i b u t o r . As I s a i d b e f o r e , t h e D i s t r i b u t o r was n o t c o m p l e t e d . The P i l o t House was n o t c o m p l e t e d , and many t h i n g s w e r e n o t c o m p l e t e d . And we s t a r t e d o u t f r o m F t . R e s o l u t i o n a t n i g h t o r s h o r t ' I y a f t e r d a r k and t r a v e l l i n g by compass we ended g o i n g t h e w r o n g way f o r some r e a s o n o r o t h e r t h e c o m p a s s on t h e D i s t r i b u t o r was w r o n g and e f f e c t e d by t h e m i n e r a l s i n t h e d i s t r i c t . We we t u r n e d c o m p l e t e l y a r o u n d and w e r e headed b a c k t o w a r d R e s o l u t i o n . A l s o , we had run o u t o f wood and t h e waves w e r e g e t t i n g q u i t e h i g h and t h e r e was a p i a n o up i n t h e u p p e r d e c k . If t h e b o a t was r o l l i n g , t h e p i a n o w o u l d s l i d e f r o m one s i d e t o t h e o t h e r o f t h e s a l o o n . T h i s was a f a i r l y l a r g e s i t t i n g saloon f o r the passengers. I t j u s t so happened e v e r y b o d y was o u t on d e c k l o o k i n g a t t h e waves and what was h a p p e n i n g and I n o t i c e d t h i s p i a n o was r o l l i n g b a c k and f o r t h , b a c k and f o r t h . I l e t o u t a y e l l and pounded on t h e w i n d o w s and s e v e r a l o f t h e p a s s e n g e r s and c r e w came i n and c a u g h t t h e p i a n o and we f i n a l l y g o t r o p e s and s t u f f and t i e d i t down so i t c o u l d n ' t move a r o u n d . O t T i e r w i s e i t w o u l d have went s m a s h i n g o u t t h r o u g h t h e w a l l and i n t o t h e l a k e . H o w e v e r , we r u n o u t o f wood. We t o o k b o x e s o f f o f e v e r y t h i n g we c o u l d f i n d , any papers, anything. We e v e n b u r n t s l a b s o f b a c o n . We f i n a l l y g o t b a c k t o B u r n t I s l a n d w h e r e t h e c r e w was a b l e t o c u t wood t o g e t us b a c k t o W r i g e l y H a r b o u r . T h a t was o u r f i r s t e x p e r i e n c e on G r e a t S l a v e Lake w i t h t h e S.S. Distributor. I m i s s e d p a r t o f t h e S l a v e R i v e r s t e a m b o a t . I b e l i e v e i t was on my s e c o n d t i m e I w e n t n o r t h , I'm n o t t o o s u r e now. Y e s , I'm a l m o s t p o s i t i v e i t w a s . Anyway we had l e f t j u s t a h e a d o f t h e A t h a b a s c a R i v e r f r o m F t . M c M u r r a y and g o t down t o A t h a b a s c a L a k e w h e r e y o u have t o t i e up and send o u t a s m a l l b o a t and men w i t h p o l e s and f l a g s a n d d r i v e t h e m i n t h e edge o f t h e c h a n n e l t o f i n d t h e c h a n n e l o u t i n t o t h e l a k e . S e c o n d l y , t h e w i n d was b l o w i n g q u i t e s t r o n g . Too s t r o n g t o t a k e t h e s t e r n w h e e l e r o u t i n t o t h e l a k e . B u t d u r i n g t h e n i g h t t h e w i n d went down and we w e r e c l o s e r t o t h e l a k e t h a n t h e A t h a b a s c a R i v e r who was t i e d a few y a r d s f u r t t w u p t h e A t h a b a s c a R i v e r t h a n we w e r e . So t h e c a p t a i n - w i t h o u t a n y n o i s e , no w h i s t l e , and w i t h a s l i t t l e n o i s e a s p o s s i b l e - g o t us a I I up and t o l d us t h e s t o r y . So we m e r e l y p u l l e d in o u r r o p e s and c a b l e s and g a n g p l a n k ( n o t m a k i n g a n y n o i s e ) and l e t t h e b o a t d r i f t down t h e A t h a b a s c a a ways i n t h e c u r r e n t . Then when he t h o u g h t we w e r e f a r enough away f r o m t h e A t h a b a s c a R i v e r S t e a m b o a t we s t a r r e d u s i n g a l i t t l e power and g o t I d i i n g s s t r a i g h t e n e d o u i and a t t h a t t i m e w e r e a b l e t o s e e t h e f l a g s f o r t h e c h a n n e l w h i c h t h e b o y s had s t a k e d o u t . The w h o l e i d e a was t h a t we had l o t s o f f r e s h f r u i t and so f o r t h on t h e b o a t and t h e f i r s t b o a t i n t o F t . F i t z g e r a l d was somehow c o n s i d e r e d t o be q u i t e an e v e n t . H o w e v e r , we r a n o u t o f wood s h o r t l y a f t e r l e a v i n g F t . C h i p e w y a n and we s t o p p e d and l o a d e d on a b u n c h o f Hudson Day Wood. The b o a t b e l o n g e d t o Lambson H u b b a r d ( t h e o l d S l a v e R i v e r s t e a m b o a t ) s o i n a s e n s e we w e r e s t e a l i n g t h e w o o d . P r e t t y s o o n we c o u l d s e e t h e smoke s t a c k o f t h e A t h a b a s c a R i v e r corning and t h e c a p t a i n w a n t e d t o be f i r s t i n t o F t . L i t z g e r a l d so we c u t l o o s e and t o o k o f f . When we g o t t o t h e S l a v e R i v e r and you a r e a b o u t 30 m i l e s o r so a b o v e F i t z g e r a l d t h e r e i s a r a p i d s o f w h i c h t h e r e ' s a l e d g e r u n s r i g h t a c r o s s Lhe r i v e r b u t by g o i n g i n b e h i n d an i s l a n d t h e r e ' s a n o t h e r s m a l l r i v e r j o i n s t h e S l a v e R i v e r a t t h i s p o i n t but' you h a v e t o go a h e a d and b a c k up in o r d e r - t o g e t o u t o f t h e r e and i n t o t h e S l a v e Ri v e r . So a t t h i s p o i n t , t h i s i s w h e r e C a p t a i n H a i g h t came i n - unbeI i e v e a b I e - we b a r e l y g o t t u r n e d a r o u n d and s t a r t e d h e a d i n g o u t i n t o t h e S l a v e R i v e r a n d , Io & b e h o l d , h e r e comes t h e A t h a b a s c a R i v e r r i g h t o u t o v e r t h e f a l l s . I t ' s bow went down u n d e r t h e w a t e r and i t w e n t s t e a m i n g o n . B e i n g a much f a s t e r b o a t t h a n t h e o l d S l a v e R i v e r , o f c o u r s e t h e y g o t i n t o F i t z g e r a l d ahead o f u s . B u t I n o t i c e i n some o f t h e l i t e r a t u r e t h a t C a p t a i n H a i g h t I d o n ' t b e l i e v e was e v e r g i v e n t h e p r a i s e f o r some o f t h e t h i n g s t h a t he d i d up n o r t h . I t h i n k t h a t t h e r e ' s f a r more c r e d i t due t o C a p t a i n H a i g h t , Captain M i l l s and J o e B i r d t h a n has e v e r come t o l i g h t . A t l e a s t t h a t ' s my o p i n i o n . j LAST or THE H . B . C . STEAMBOATS HILL L PHOTO BY G. ' S.S. ATHABASCA STRANDBERG, - FORT RIVER' 1923-1943 MCMU RRAY T h e r e ' s a n o t h e r i n s t a n c e t h a t I had f o r g o t a b o u t a t V e r m i l i o n C h u t e s and h e r e m y s e l f and T i n y G i f f o r d came i n t o p l a y a g a i n . I t was n o r m a l t o g e t I n d i a n b o y s t o t a k e t h e c a n o e s down o v e r V e r m i l l i o n C h u t e s . And t h i s day T i n y a n d I w e r e s t a n d i n g on t h e s h o r e and h e r e comes a c a n o e b u t i f was u p s e t a n d t w o b o y s w e r e h o l d i n g o n t o t h e c a n o e g o i n g down t h e P e a c e R i v e r w h i c h r u n s q u i t e f a s t b e l o w t h e c h u t e s and q u i t e a ways off shore. B u t t h e r e was a bunch o f c a n o e s t h e r e on t h e b a r g e , s o T i n y and I g r a b b e d a c a n o e and p a d d l e s . I t h o u g h t t h a t T i n y was c o m i n g w i t h me s o I g o t r i g h t o u t i n t o t h e n o s e o r t h e b o w . o f t h e c a n o e w i t h o n e p a d d l e b e c a u s e I t h o u g h t he was g e t t i n g i n the back. B u t i n s t e a d o f t h a t he g i v e t h e c a n o e a s h o v e and o f c o u r s e o n e e n d o f t h e c a n o e w e n t way up i n t h e a i r a n d went w h i r l i n g a r o u n d . In a n y c a s e , I f o u n d m y s e l f a I one and I t o o k o f f . As soon a s t h i s o n e f e l l o w saw me corning w i t h a c a n o e , he l e t go o f t h e b o a t he was h o l d i n g o n t o d r i f t i n g down t h e r i v e r and s t a r t e d t o swim t o w a r d s me. I had q u i t e a job. I had t o t h r e a t e n h i m w i t h h i t t i n g him w i t h t h e p a d d l e i n o r d e r t o keep him f r o m c l i m b i n g i n . I f i n a l l y g o t h i m t o g e t a h o l d o f t h e n o s e o f t h e c a n o e and I p a d d l e d b a c k t o s h o r e w h e r e he was a b l e t o wade t o s h o r e . In t h e m e a n t i m e T i n y had g o t a n o t h e r c a n o e i n t h e w a f e r and t a k e n o f f down t h e P e a c e R i v e r and p i c k e d up t h e o t h e r boy who was s t i l l h o l d i n g o n t o t h e c a n o e and a l s o b r o u g h t t h e u p s i d e down boat' b a c k to shore. T h e r e ' s one o r two t h i n g s t h a t I ' v e m i s s e d t h a t I t h i n k I s h o u l d m e n t i o n . In t h e 3 0 ' s when I w e n t b a c k up n o r t h I was on t h e S . S . D i s t r i b u t o r a n d we l a n d e d a t t h e F t . Norman o i Iwel I s . W h i l e t h e y w e r e u n l o a d i n g t h e r e 1 w e n t f o r a w a l k b a c k i n t h e bush a b o u t t w o m i l e s w h e r e I had p r e v i o u s l y u n l o a d e d a d r i l l i n g r i g i n t h e e a r l y d a y s - i n t h e boom day . ( 1 9 1 9 - 20 - 2 1 ) . To g i v e you some i d e a what i t i s l i k e , t h i s d r i l l i n g r i g was a b o u t t h e same s i z e a s we u s e n o w a d a y s f o r d r i l l i n g w a t e r w e l l s . I t was a l l s t e e l w h e e l s a n d q u i t e h e a v y and a s I was s e c o n d mate on t h e D i s t r i b u t o r a t t h a t t i m e , i t was my j o b u n l o a d i n g t h e . d r i l l i n g r i g . S o I went a s h o r e , p u t c a b f t e s a r o u n d a bunch o f w i l l o w s a n d p o p l a r and s t u f f along t h e shore. P u t t w o g a n g p l a n k s down and t o o k t h e d r i l l i n g r i g down. E v e r y t h i n g went f i n e u n t i l i t h i t t h e s h o r e . Of c o u r s e t h e s h o r e was muddy arid s o f t but a l l r o c k s and g r a v e l . B u t s t i l l t h e d r i l l i n g r i g s a n k down i n t o t h i s muck. So I was w a t c h i n g a s we had p u t a p u l l e y on s h o r e and r u n a c a b l e t o t h e r i g a n d b a c k t o t h e s t e a m c a p s t a n on t h e b o a t t o p u l l t h e r i g up a b o v e t h e w a t e r l i n e . I was w a t c h i n g t h i s s t e a m c a p s t a n and i t was g o i n g r i g h t b u t the d r i l l i n g r i g w a s n ' t moving. So I l o o k e d up o n l y t o f i n d t h a t a l l t h e w i l l o w s and p o p l a r s , a l l t h e d i r t and e v e r y t h i n g was a l l s l i d i n g down b u t t h e d r i l l i n g r i g was s t a n d i n g s t i l l . Well a l l t h e r e was was a b o u t 8 o r 10 i n c h e s o f d i r t and u n d e r t h a t was p e r m a f r o s t f r o z e n hard. So we had t o g e t a x e s and p i c k s , m o s t l y a x e s o r s h o v e l s , and we had t o d i g a t r e n c h i n t o t h e f r o z e n d i r t and make w h a t i s c a l l e d a deadman, t h a t i s we had t o p u t a t i m b e r down i n t h i s h o l e w i t h a runway c u t o u t t o w a r d s t h e b o a t so a s t h e c a b l e w o n ' t p u l l t h e deadman o u t o f t h e h o l e . T h a t way we g o t t h i s m a c h i n e up on t h e s h o r e and a b o v e t h e w a t e r and ice l i n e w h i c h was t h e end o f o u r responsibility. Now t h a t was a b o u t 1922 I b e l i e v e . And I w e n t b a c k a b o u t 1932 o r 1933 and when went b a c k f o r a w a l k up t h e r e , h e r e was t h i s m a c h i n e s t i l l s i t t i n g r i g h t w h e r e it. _ ^ - I t h i n k I should tugboat. tell left Rapid boats e n t r o u t e from F t . Smith t o Bear R i v e r R a p i d s - F t . Norman ^ — — M you a little b i t about Great Bear Lake and t h e L i a r d River F i r s t we w i l l t a l k about' B e a r R i v e r i t s e l f . You c a n go up a b o u t 50 m i l e s t o t h e r a p i d s i n G r e a t B e a r R i v e r w h e r e we had a camp. I i e r e we t o o k a l l t h e f r e i g h t and p u t i t i n t o r a p i d b o a t s - a b o u t t w o t o n s a t a t i m e - and t o o k i t up t h r o u g h t h e r a p i d s and t h e f a s t w a t e r w h e r e i t c o u l d be p i c k e d up by l a r g e r b o a t s a b o v e t h e rapids. On one o f t h e s e t r i p s f r o m F t . Norman up t o t h e r a p i d s we u s u a l l y h a u l e d a r o u n d 20 t o n o f f r e i g h t p u s h i n g a s m a l l b a r g e a h e a d o f a s m a l l e r t u g . On t h i s p a r t i c u l a r t r i p S u p e r i n t e n d e n t D a v i s had come down t o t h e B e a r R i v e r w h i c h was a c o u p l e o f m i l e s o r so w e s t o f F t . Norman w h e r e we k e p t t h e b o a t and t o l d me t h a f t h e D i s t r i b u t o r was c o m i n g i n t h e n e x t day and t h a t i f Jimmy t h e p i l o t knew a b o u t i t he w o u l d n ' t l e a v e F t . Norman u n t i l a f t e r t h e D i s t r i b u t o r had come and g o n e and t h a t w o u l d be s e v e r a l d a y s a s h i s f a m i l y was a t F t . Norman a t t h a t t i m e . So he a s k e d me t o g o , t a k e t h e boat up t o t h e r a p i d s , u n l o a d i t and b r i n g i t b a c k w i t h o u t l e t t i n g Jimmy t h e p i l o t know. This I did. So we s t a r t e d o f f and e v e r y t h i n g went f i n e t i l l we g o t up j u s t b e l o w t h e r a p i d s a t t h e f i r s t o b s t a c l e w h e r e t h e r e was v e r y s h a l l o w w a t e r b u t t h e r e i s a deep c h a n n e l o u t in t h e m i d d l e o f t h e B e a r R i v e r . But w h e r e t h i s c h a n n e l i s t h e r e i s a l s o a l a r g e s t o n e , p r o b a b l y 30 o r 40 f e e t i n d i a m e t e r and s t i c k i n g o u t o f t h e w a t e r . The w a t e r h i t s ' t h i s s t o n e and g l a n c e s o f f and c r e a t e s deep w a t e r on t h e l e f t hand s i d e o f i t and a l s o a deep eddy b e l o w i t . So i n o r d e r t o g e t up o v e r t h i s l e d g e you come up, h i t t h e e d d y , you g e t s p e e d u p , you j u s t go p a s t on t h e l e f t hand s i d e o f t h i s b o u l d e r . You have e n o u g h s p e e d t o g e t you up past" t h i s b i g s t o n e and o v e r t h e l e d g e and i n t o t h e deeper water above. However t h e r e a r e a l w a y s s t o n e s r o l l i n g i n t h e c h a n n e l and t h i s p a r t i c u l a r t i m e we were l o a d e d p r e t t y h e a v y . We had a bunch o f d r i l l s t e e l and v a r i o u s h e a v y t h i n g s on b o a r d and I d i d n ' t know m y s e l f t h a t t h i s scow was q u i t e o l d . No one had e v e r told me and I had n e v e r t h o u g h t a b o u t i t . However t h e r e was j u s t t h e p i l o t , m y s e l f and one man who was g o i n g up a s a p u r s e r t o c h e c k t h e f r e i g h t up t h r o u g h t h e r a p i d s and so f o r t h . So we w e r e d o i n g f i n e t i l I we went p a s t t h e s t o n e . We g o t up o v e r t h e hump and i n t o t h e deep w a t e r and we s h o u l d have k e p t on t h e l e f t hand s i d e i n t h e channel. H o w e v e r , t h e r e had been a r o l l i n g b o u l d e r t h a t had g o t i n t o t h e c h a n n e l and o u r b a r g e o r scow h i t t h i s and poked a b i g h o l e i n i h - in t h e bow o f i t . The p i l o t , J i m m y , I c o u l d not g e t him t o s w i n g t o s h a l l o w w a t e r b e c a u s e he knew we w o u l d go a g r o u n d b u t a l s o i t was o u r o n l y c h a n c e t o s a v e a n y t h i n g . So on o u r r i g h t hand s i d e i t was v e r y s h a l l o w a s you c o u l d s e e w i t h l o t s o f s a n d b a r s , e t c . I tried t o g e t Jimmy t o s w i n g t o t h e r i g h t and t a k e i t i n t o t h e s h a l l o w w a t e r and he w o u l d n ' t do i t . So I t o o k t h e w h e e l o u t o f h i s hands and s t e e r e d i t m y s e l f and run i t up i n t o t h e s h a l l o w w a t e r a s f a r a s i t w o u l d go u n t i l i t f i n a l l y run a b s o l u t e l y a g r o u n d . H e r e we w e r e a b o u t a m i l e and a h a l f b e l o w o u r camp a t t h e f o o t o f t h e r a p i d s . T h e r e t h e b o y s saw we w e r e in t r o u b l e so t h e y came down w i t h t h e r a p i d b o a t s and we unloaded e v e r y t h i n g onto the r a p i d boats. B u t a s we u n l o a d e d o f c o u r s e t h e b a r g e b e came l i g h t e r and t h e f o r c e o f t h e w a t e r was t r y i n g t o s h o v e u s , b o a t and a l l , b a c k down o v e r t h e r o c k s . So we had t o keep t h e m o t o r r u n n i n g a l l o f t h e l i m e and keep t h e b a r g e headed u p s t r e a m . So I g o t t h e b o y s a t t h e r a p i d s - we had some c a b l e up a t t h e r a p i d s - t h e y b r o u g h t i t down and we hooked i t o n t o t h e b a r g e and w i t h t h e r a p i d b o a t s t h e y t o o k i t a s h o r e a b o u t a q u a r t e r o f a m i l e and made i t f a s t i n t o some r o c k s and t i e d i t o n t o t h e b a r g e . So when we f i n a l l y u n l o a d e d t h e b a r g e we d i d n ' t l o o s e one t h i n g . Even some l o o s e p i c k s t h a t w e r e l a y i n g on t h e d e c k we managed t o s a v e and t h e d r i l l s t e e l w h i c h was w o r t h q u i t e a b i t o f money. We s a v e d a l l t h i s b u t t h e r e was n o t h i n g we c o u l d do w i t h he b a r g e so w i t h t h e c a b l e on i t we unhooked t h e b o a t and d r o p p e d b a c k and l e t t h e barge swing ashore i n t o s h a l l o w w a t e r , which i t d i d . Then we w e n t b a c k t o F t . Norrnan < u : J and I r e p o r t e d t o D a v i s what had h a p p e n e d . ! t h o u g h t he w o u l d be q u i t e u p s e t b u t he w a s n ' t ' . He s a i d "Oh w e l l , " he s a i d " T h a t ' s g o o d . I ' v e been t r y i n g t o g e t r i d o f t h a t barge f o r a long t i m e " . So t h e r e we l e f t i f and n e v e r d i d go b a c k t o g e t i t . H o w e v e r we t o o k a t u g b o a t , L i a r d R i v e r , and I b e l i e v e t w o b a r g e s and we t o o k i t up t h r o u g h a l l t h e s e r a p i d s o f w h i c h t h e r e i s r a p i d s a l l t h e way up t o G r e a t B e a r Lake above what i s c a l l e d Bear R i v e r R a p i d s . T h e r e ' s f a l l s and a l l k i n d s o f o b s t a c l e s and a l o t o f b e n d s . I d o n ' t remember e x a c t l y b u t I e n d e d up anyway on t h e L i a r d R i v e r and on G r e a t B e a r L a k e . H e r e we had t h e same p i l o t , J i m m y . In t h e m e a n t i m e J i m m y ' s f a m i l y had gone up t o F r a n k l i n . I d o n ' t know whet tier t h e y were f l o w n up f r o m Norman o r w h a t . P e r h a p s t h e Bay f l e w h i s f a m i l y up t o F t . F r a n k l i n w h i c h was j u s t a c r o s s f o u r o r f i v e m i l e s f r o m t h e mouth o f t h e B e a r R i v e r w h e r e t h e Lake e m p t i e d o u t . T h i s i s w h e r e t h e f r e i g h t had been p i l e d up t h e r e . Also p l a n e s w e r e h a u l i n g f r e i g h t f r o m Norman up and dumping i t o f f a t F t . F r a n k l i n c a c h e . Unloading freight loading freight Lldorado mine at and July 6 - i c e a I ong the shore of Great Ri v e r Bear A t + h i s p a r t i c u l a r t i m e we had C o l o n e l Ree^s son a s p u r s e r on t h e L i a r d . The p u r s e r s j o b i s t o keep t r a c k o f t h e f r e i g h t and c o l l e c t c o s t s , g e t i t s i g n e d f o r and keep t r a c k o f i t and so f o r t h . H o w e v e r , we had t o r e l o a d a s we had t a k e n t h e b a r g e s up e m p t y . I m i g h t e x p l a i n t h a t you c a n ' t j u s t t a k e t h e b a r g e s and go u p . You have t o r u n o u t c a b l e s and have c a p s t a n s on t h e b a r g e s . Capstans, which are w i n c h e s so t o speak, a r e o p e r a t e d by g a s o l i n e m o t o r s o r s t e a m . You have t o t a k e a s m a l l b o a t I i k e a r a p i d s b o a t and r u n y o u r c a b l e o u t and up t h e s h o r e and make i t f a s t t o s o m e t h i n g o r p u t i n a deadman. Then you have t o l i n e up t h e s e b a r g e s and b o a t s . The w a t e r i s t o o f a s t and q u i t e s h a l l o w . Two o r t h r e e p l a c e s i t i s j u s t a s t r a i g h t f a l l s - j u s t a c h a n n e l on one s i d e o r t h e o t h e r w h e r e you c a n go u p . B u t you have t o have t h e h e l p o f a c a b l e and w i n c h i n o r d e r t o g e t up t h r o u g h t h e s e p I aces. We w e r e a l i t t l e u n l u c k y b e c a u s e f o r some r e a s o n o r o t h e r t h e p i l o t and t h e c a p t a i n got m i x e d up and r a n g t h e wrong s i g n a l s . When t h e y s h o u l d h a v e r a n g a s i g n a l f o r slow o r s o m e t h i n g , t h e y rang a s i g n a l f o r f u l l speed ahead. So we s h o v e d one o f t h e b a r g e s r i g h t up i n t o t h e r o c k s . However we g o t t h a t f i x e d and we g o t up t o F t . F ra n k I i n. B u t i n t h e m e a n t i m e we had a few p a s s e n g e r s a t F t . F r a n k l i n t o go a c r o s s t o what was t h e n known a s E l d o r a d o , t h a t i s t h e L a B i n e ' s mine on G r e a t B e a r L a k e . H e r e Jimmy w a n t e d t o go and v i s i t h i s f a m i l y o v e r a t F t . F r a n k l i n w h i c h meant t a k i n g a s m a l l b o a t and an o u t b o a r d m o t o r t o go and s e e t h e m . A t t h i s p o i n t , I a p p a r e n t l y was s l e e p i n g so t h e c a p t a i n came and g o t me o u t o f bed and t o l d me t h a t t h e p u r s e r , C o l o n e l R e e d ' s s o n , w a n t e d t o c h a r g e Jimmy f o r t a k i n g t h e b o a t and g o i n g o v e r t o F t . F r a n k l i n and o f c o u r s e Jimmy w o u l d n ' t h e a r t o i t so he q u i t . So t h e r e we w e r e w i t h no p i l o t . The c a p t a i n came and t o l d me t h i s . Then t h e c a p t a i n g o t e v e r y b o d y e l s e away and o u t o f s i g h t and I g o t up and w e n t t o t a l k t o Jimmy. So I t o l d him t h a t he had m i s u n d e r s t o o d t h a t he w a n t e d t o c h a r g e him - t h a t he was m e r e l y w a n t i n g t o t e l l him what i t was g o i n g t o c o s t . Anyway I c o n v i n c e d Jimmy and I g o t h i m i n t o t h e b o a t , t h e m o t o r i n i t , p u t some g a s i n i t and some g a s t o come b a c k w i t h and I g o t him on h i s way and g o t Jimmy t o come b a c k on t h e b o a t a f t e r w a r d s . T h i s was a i l f i n e . We made s e v e r a l t r i p s a c r o s s and I d o n ' t know i f i t was t h a t y e a r o r t h e n e x t y e a r , i n any c a s e we had q u i t e a s t o r m g o i n g o v e r and i f you l o o k a t Fiear Lake you w i l l s e e t h a t t h e r e Is a k i n d o f a c r o s s w a y s and t h e r e ' s k i n d o f a l a r g e body o f w a t e r t h a t you have t o c r o s s a t one t i m e and t h e r e ' s no way t o g e t o u t o f i t . However we g o t a c r o s s t h e r e and t h r o u g h a l l t h e w a v e s and s t u f f and we h e l d o n t o t h e s h o r e on t h e l e f t hand s i d e t h a t t h e w i n d was c o m i n g o f f s h o r e . A v e r y n i c e day b u t t h e w i n d was b l o w i n g . H e r e a g a i n Fhe p i l o t went t o s l e e p a t t h e wheel and we ran a s h o r e on a s a n d b a r b u t t h e r e was no damage done s o we b a c k e d o f f and g o t g o i n g a g a i n b u t by t h e t i m e we g o t t h r o u g h at LaBine's mine w i t h a l l + h i s we s t i l l E l d o r a d o a+ +ha+ t i m e had +0 c r o s s Grea+ B e a r Lake +0 L a B i n e ' s mine known a s and w i t h g r e a t b i g r o c k s , and r o c k i s l a n d s , e t c . I ' l l do my b e s t +0 remember +he c a p + a i n ' s name. H o w e v e r , I do know he was a new c a p t a i n b u t he s u r e knew h i s b u s i n e s s . We had t o c r o s s G r e a t b e a r Lake i n t h e d a r k w i t h waves somewheres b e t w e e n 20 and 30 +eet h i g h wi+h a f l a t b o t t o m tow b o a t p u l l i n g +wo b a r g e s b e h i n d us a n d e a c h on an 80 f o o t tow r o p e and a l l we had t o go on was a c o m p a s s . T h e r e was no b o u y s o r n o t h i n g . W e l l , you c a n i m a g i n e how s c a r e d I was and I b e l i e v e a l s o t h a t +he c a p + a i n was s c a r e d . Bu+ a l l I c a n remember a b o u t +he c a p t a i n was t h a t h i s M o t h e r owned t h e Q u e e n ' s H o t e l i n Edmonton and I'm g o i n g t o f i n d o u t w h a t h i s name was a n d t r y t o g i v e i t t o my d a u g h t e r when s h e +ypes + h i s out. H o w e v e r , f i r s t we saw w h a t was j u s t I i k e a c a n d l e l i g h t . And t h e n i t g o t a l i t t l e b i g g e r and we k e p t l o o k i n g a t t h i s l i g h t w i t h g l a s s e s . F i r s t we t h o u g h t i t was a s t a r and i t k e p t g e t t i n g b i g g e r s o we d e c i d e d I t was s o m e t h i n g e l s e . And he s a y s " H e r e , O s c a r , t a k e t lie g l a s s e s " , a n d he s a y s " t h a t ' s some k i n d o f a l i g h t " . So I d i d a n d we c o u l d s e e t h e f l a m e s m o v i n g . S o m e t h i n g was d i f f e r e n t b e c a u s e i t w o u l d g e t b i g a n d t h e n s m a l l a n d I s a i d " Y e s , i t i s " . So he t o o k a n o t h e r l o o k and he s a y s "Somebody h a s made a b e a c o n o u t t h e r e " . S o , s u r e e n o u g h , as we g o t c l o s e r G i l b e r t L a B i n e knew we w e r e c o m i n g a n d he p u t a bunch o f t r e e s , I g u e s s i t w o u l d be a b o u t 30 f e e + h i g h , and he pu+ +hem up l i k e a +epee wi+h a f i r e up i n +he p e a k o f + hem and + h i s was t h e l i g h t we saw a n d , b e l i e v e you me, t h a t was some r e l i e f ' . ' . You must remember t h e r e was no r a d i o a n d no means o f c o m m u n i c a t i o n a t t h i s t i m e . H o w e v e r , we g o t t h e r e , u n l o a d e d and t h a t a n d s t a r t e d b a c k . In t h e m e a n t i m e t h e w i n d had c h a n g e d a r o u n d and was c o m i n g f r o m t h e e a s t . So we t o o k +he o + h e r s h o r e - +he way b a c k b u t w e r e p r a c t i c a l l y r u n n i n g empty o u t s i d e o f some p i t c h b l e n d . - n c e n t r a + e s +ha+ we had l o a d e d on bu+ v e r y l i + + l e o f a l o a d . 1 We came ' t h r o u g h a s+orm. T h i s was ' ' • o u r las+ f l p . We had t a k e n w h a t i s known as t h e power barge a l o n g . B u t t h e w a v e s w e r e s o bad t h a t we had t o c u t t h e power b a r g e l o o s e and s e n d h i m on by h i m s e l f . W e l l a s t h a t was a r i v e r b o a t a n d had t w o t a n k s , o n e on e a c h s i d e , 2 5 0 g a l l o n s e a c h , t h e r e had been a c c u m u l a t i o n o f r u s t and w a t e r and s t u f f i n t h e s e t a n k s . Tiie rough w a t e r l o o s e n e d i t a n d r h e y w e r e h a v i n g a l o t of t r o u b l e . T h e y d i d n ' t have a f l a s h l i g h t n o r a n y t h i n g - n o t h i n g a t a l l . No l i f e p r e s e r v e r s , b o a t s n o r a n y t h i n g on t h i s b a r g e w h i c h was c a n v a s t o p . So we l o s t t h e m i n t h e d a r k b u t we l e f t t h e l i g h t o n . As o u r g e n e r a t o r w a s n ' t p u t t i n g o u t v e r y much, we w o u l d p u t t h e l i g h t o u t o n c e In a w h i l e b u t we p u t i t on anyway and t h e y came up a l o n g s i d e a n d s a i d t h e y w e r e h a v i n g t r o u b l e b u t t h e y c o u l d make i t i f t h e y had some k i n d o f l i g h t - a f l a s h l i g h t , a n y t h i n g ! So we g a v e t h e m a l a n t e r n and a f l a s h l i g h t . E v e r y b o d y was a s l e e p e x c e p t t h e p i l o t , t h e c a p t a i n and myself. I had g o n e on d e c k and p u l l e d t h e r o p e i n and t h e man had t o j u m p . When t h e b a r g e was up i n t h e a i r a b o v e o u r b o a t he had t o jump down o n t o o u r b o a t . Then he had t o w a i t t i l l o u r b o a t was up a n d h i s b a r g e was down and t h e n he jumped back. W e l l he o n l y had a b o u t 18 i n c h e s o f a w a l k w a y a r o u n d h i s b a r g e . So he l i t on i t a l r i g h t b u t went i n t o t h e c a n v a s t o p o f c o u r s e b u t d i d n ' t g e t h u r t . Anyway he had a f l a s h l i g h t a n d a l a n t e r n a n d some c a n d l e s , e t c . W e l l , t h a t was a l l f i n e b u t t h e g u y r u n n i n g t h e b a r g e a n d t h e p i l o t on o u r b o a t b o t h d e c i d e d i t was t i m e t o cut loose. In t h e m e a n t i m e i c e i s f r e e z i n g on t h e d e c k and I p u l l e d t h i s r o p e a l l up a t my f e e t a n d w r a p p e d i t a r o u n d a snub p o s t , h o l d i n g i t t h e r e , a n d a s s o o n a s I " n d o n e i f e a c h o n e o f them swung t h e i r b o a t s away f r o m o n e a n o t h e r . And h e r e I am a n c i n g i n t h e d a r k " w i t h t h i s r o p e s n a k & i n g o u t u n d e r my f e e t ! You w o u l d n ' t l i v e more t h a n 5 o r 10 m i n u t e s a t t h e most i f y o u g o t i n t o t h a t w a t e r b e c a u s e i t i s i c e c o l d even i n t h e warmest w e a t h e r . You c a n ' t d r i n k i f down - i t ' s t h a t c o l d . H o w e v e r we g o t t h r o u g h i t a l l and we w e r e j u s t c o m i n g i n t o F r a n k l i n Bay on o u r way b a c k and o u t comes I b e l i e v e i t was V i c Ingram w i t h a s c h o o n e r and one o r t w o s c o w s in tow. Now t h e s c h o o n e r was a l a k e b o a t b u t t h e s c o w s were n o t , t h e y w e r e j u s t o r d i n a r y scows. Anyway we went a s c l o s e a s we d a r e and t h e c a p t a i n h o l l e r e d o v e r w i t h h i s megaphone and t o l d him t o " G o b a c k " . We a i l m o t i o n e d f o r him t o " G o B a c k " b u t i n F r a n k l i n Bay t h e r e was no w i n d and t h e r e was no w a v e s , so I g u e s s t h e y d i d n ' t know what we w e r e t a l k i n g a b o u t and t h e r e was no o t h e r means o f c o m m u n i c a t i o n . They d i d n ' t go b a c k . T h e y w e n t on and t h e e n g i n e somehow c a u g h t f i r e and t h e t w o b o y s w e r e drowned and t h e y l o s t t h e b a r g e and V i c Ingram (I b e l i e v e h i s name was V i c Ingram) was f o u n d a b o u t t w o weeks l a t e r on a s a n d b a r p a r t l y f r o z e n . I n e v e r met h i m a f t e r w a r d s b u t b e l i e v e he l o s t some o r p a r t o f h i s f e e t o r s o m e t h i n g o r o t h e r . However he was a l i v e b u t t h e s e t w o b o y s w e r e drowned i n t h e L a k e . As I s a i d b e f o r e , we had some p a s s e n g e r s and i t was n e c e s s a r y t o have an e n g i n e e r t h a t was l i c e n s e d t o c a r r y p a s s e n g e r s . So t h e y s e n t up a s t e a m e n g i n e e r who knew a b s o l u t e l y nothing about g a s o l i n e boats. So he s a i d " O s c a r , you do t h e c h i e f ' s w o r k and I ' l l do y o u r w o r k " . I s a i d " T h a t ' s okay w i t h me". " B u t " he s a i d " O k a y , b u t I'm g o i n g t o keep my own p a y " . I said "That's okay". B u t anyway i t came t o t a k i n g t h e b o a t b a c k down t h e r i v e r and we s t a r t e d o u t . E v e r y b o d y had s a t down f o r b r e a k f a s t and t h e B e a r R i v e r makes q u i t e f a s t w a t e r and i t s j u s t l i k e g l a s s g o i n g down t h e h i l l . So he s a y s " I ' l l t a k e o v e r " . I might m e n t i o n a l s o t h a t t h e o t h e r e n g i n e e r b e f o r e was a I so a s t e a m e n g i n e e r and he q u i t and w e n t o u t by p l a n e and t h e y f l e w t h i s o n e B i l l M a l c o l m i n who was a s t e a m e n g i n e e r and who I knew. He s a y s " I ' l l t a k e o v e r n o w " . I said "Okay". We a l l went i n t o have b r e a k f a s t and t h e y s t a r t e d down t h e r i v e r and on t h e r i v e r b o a t s you have t o be v e r y f a s t and you d o n ' t s t o p l i k e w i t h a s t e a m e n g i n e . They r a n g f o r r e v e r s e . Well B i l l t h o u g h t he was d o i n g r i g h t . He s l o w e d t h e e n g i n e down, p u s h e d i t i n f o r e v e r s e and o p e n e d t h e e n g i n e up. B u t by t h e t i m e he had done t h i s t h e b o a t h i t t h e bank and thr-r--- a s a b i g s p r u c e t r e e comes s a i l i n g r i g h t t h r o u g h ! Right over the t a b l e ! H o w e v e r t h a t h e l d us t h e r e . So t h e y had t o g e t o u t and saw t h i s o f f b e f o r e we c o u l d move. Anyway B i l l comes up " F i n i s h e d . I ' l l have n o t h i n g more t o do w i t h i t " . So I took over again. B u t you m e r e l y s t a n d t h e r e and when t h e y r i n g f o r r e v e r s e you throw i t i n t o r e v e r s e . You d o n ' t e v e n t r y t o s l o w t h e e n g i n e down b e c a u s e t h e w a t e r is very f a s t . I t s in a m a t t e r of seconds t h i n g s happen. W Anyway, wo g o t down t o t h e main r a p i d p a r t w i t h o u t any s e r i o u s t h i n g s g o i n g wrong b u t on t h e l a s t s t a g e t h e r e i s a c o u p l e o f m i l e s o f v e r y s h a l l o w w a t e r and l o t s o f boulders. H e r e we had t o c r o s s f r o m +he l e f t t o r i g h t s i d e , a b o u t one q u a r t e r o f a mile. T h e r e was a b o u l d e r g o t i n arid h i t t h e p r o p e l l e r and s t a l l e d t h e e n g i n e . The I h i n g had been s e t up wrong on t h e j t h r o t t l e and t h e s p a r k and when you r e a c h e d t o c r a n k t h e m o t o r , w h i c h you had t o c r a n k i t w i t h a b a r , you r e a c h e d r i g h t o v e r t o p of the spark advance. H a v i n g a c o a t o n , my s l e e v e c a u g h t t h e s p a r k a d v a n c e . A l t h o u g h I had r e t a r d e d i t , I c a u g h t i t and s h o v e d i t a h e a d and when I c r a n k e d t h e m o t o r o f c o u r s e i t f i r e d and t h e b a r w e n t s a i l i n g a r o u n d t h e c a b i n i n s i d e t h e e n g i n e room! I f i n a l l y f o u n d i t and g o t t h e e n g i n e g o i n g j u s t i n t i m e o r we w o u l d have g o n e r i g h t down o v e r t h e r o c k s and e v e r y t h i n g s i d e w a y s . So we g o t t h r o u g h t h a t p a r t w i t h no more t r o u b l e . A l l t h a t was s a i d was t h e s k i p p e r s a i d t o B i l l M a l c o l m , t h e o t h e r e n g i n e e r "I t h o u g h t e n g i n e e r s b e l o n g e d i n t h e e n g i n e r o o m " . And t h a t was t h e end o f t h a t ! He was away o u t f r o n t on t h e b a r g e 200 f e e t f r o m t h e e n g i n e r o o m . The f i r e m a n seemed t o have + r o u b l e i n +he f a s + wa+er in +he Rampar+s. W h i l e +hough ! was +he ma+e on i + , +hey w o u l d g e t a h o l d o f me and ge+ me +0 f i r e i f up + h r o u g h +he r a p i d s i n o r d e r +0 keep up s+eam. I d o n ' + + h i n k i+ was s o much my a b i l i t y +0 keep up s+eam a s i+ was +ha+ +he e n g i n e e r s had f a i + h i n me and +rus+ed me. T h e r e were b a l e s o f f u r f r o m o n e end o f +he b o a r +0 1 he o + h e r and +0 ge+ +0 +he b o i l e r b a c k +0 +he e n g i n e room you had t o go o u t s i d e and h o l d o n t o a c a b l e and w a l k a l o n g t h e o u t s i d e of t h e boat. The e n g i n e e r c o u l d n ' + l e a v e I i i s e n g i n e s and go up t h e r e and s e e w h a t t h e f i r e m a n was d o i n g . So i f t h e f i r e m a n w a n t e d t o s h u t t h e w a t e r o f f t o g e t up a l i t t l e more s t e a m and had p l e n t y o f w a t e r i n t h e b o i l e r , he w o u l d m e r e l y l o o s e n t h e s t r a p and p u t i t i n a h o l e on a n a i l a b o v e . That would s h u t t h e f l o w of water o f f i n t o t h e boiler. B u t t h e e n g i n e e r , b e i n g s c a r e d , w o u l d p u t i t b a c k w h e r e i+ w a s . Therefore t h e f i r e m a n c o u l d n ' + ge+ s+eam a n y h i g h e r +nan i t was and k e p t l o s i n g s+eam. This is when +hey c a l l e d me i n . W h a t e v e r I d i d t h e e n g i n e e r had f a i t h i n me f r o m my e x p e r i e n c e on t h e b o i l e r and w o u l d n ' t b o t h e r t h e s t r a p t h a t c o n t r o l l e d t h e f l o w o f w a t e r . On my f i n a l o c c a s i o n t h e y g o t me o u t o f bed t o f i r e t h i s same b o i l e r on t h e D i s t r i b u t o r on G r e a t S l a v e L a k e a s t h e f i r e m a n c o u l d n ' t keep up s t e a m . I had q u i t and was on t h e way o u t b e c a u s e t h e u n i o n s i n V a n c o u v e r w o u l d n ' t l e t t h e men t o go work up n o r t h u n l e s s +hey r a i s e d t h e w a g e s . I had been h i r e d by t h e c o m m i s s i o n e r s in F e b r u a r y and h i r e d a t t h e o l d r a t e and knew n o t h i n g a b o u t t h i s u n t i l one o f t h e men t o Id me a b o u t i t . So I a p p r o a c h e d C o l o n e l Reed who was G e n e r a l M a n a g e r and was on t h e D i s t r i b u t o r a t t h a t t i m e and t o l d h i m t h e s t o r y . I was r u n n i n g f r o m F t . Norman t o a b o u t t h e f o o t of the Bear Rapids a t t h a t t i m e . C o l o n e l Reed s a i d t h a t as I was h i r e d by t h e c o m m i s s i o n e r s , he c o u l d n ' t do a t h i n g a b o u t i t b u t w o u l d recommend t h a t t h e y g i v e me t h e same amount o f money t h a t t h e o t h e r s were g e t t i n g . However, I d i d n ' t b e l i e v e him and I t o l d him t h a t I was q u i t t i n g and g o i n g o u t . Ile was g o i n g t o make me pay my way o u t and I had t o go up on t h e promenade d e c k and e a t i n t h e d i n i n g room a l o n g w i t h t h e p a s s e n g e r s and a l s o t o have a s t a t e room. B u t I d i d n ' t do t h a t . I made a r r a n g e m e n t s w i t h t h e s e c o n d mate and w h i l e he on d u t y I s l e p t i n h i s c a b i n and I a t e down b e l o w w i t h t h e d e c k hands and t h e c r e w . However t h e male come and g o t me o u t o f bed and s a i d t h e y w e r e i n t r o u b l e and t h e e n g i n e e r w a n t e d me r i g h t a w a y . So I w e n t down and t o o k o v e r t h e f i r i n g o f t h e b o i l e r and g o t s t e a m b a c k up and we g o t a c r o s s G r e a t S l a v e Lake s a f e l y . w a s I d i d n ' t know t h a t C o l o n e l Reed had come down and was w a t c h i n g me f i r e t h e b o i l e r t i l l t h e e n g i n e e r t o l d me n e x t d a y . As f a r a s he knew I had s a v e d h i s l i f e p l u s a l l t h e o t h e r p e o p l e and c r e w . When we g o t b a c k t o W a t e r w a y s we had t o g e t o f f t h e b o a t , go and s t a y o v e r n i g h t i n a h o t e l t o g e t on t h e t r a i n n e x t m o r n i n g t o go b a c k t o E d m o n t o n . I had s u p p e r t h e r e and I had b r e a k f a s t and I went t o s e e t h e c l e r k and a s k him how much I owed. B u t I had t o go and c o l l e c t my wages b e f o r e I c o u l d pay i t . He s a i d " I t has a l l been paid". So I s t a r t e d o u t t o go o v e r t o t h e o f f i c e and I met t h e a c c o u n t a n t , I f o r g o t h i s name b u t he was a r e d h e a d e d f e l l o w . I t h i n k h i s name was McKay o r s o m e t h i n g l i k e that. H o w e v e r he s a i d " G r e e n , we have a w i r e h e r e t h a t t h e Company w a n t s t o h i r e you on a y e a r r o u n d b a s i s and w a n t s you t o go b a c k t o F t . Norman on t h e j o b you were o n " . B u t , b e i n g a home l o v i n g b o y , t h e r e was j u s t no way t o go home and I d i d . I came home. I w a n t e d t o go back. I wanted Marooned b e h i n d +he i c e on Grea+ Slave Lake. B a c k r o w , I e f + +0 righ+ - Oscar Green, e n g i n e e r , Dr. G i l c h r e s + , Universi+y of Alber+a, Edmon+on. Fron+ r o w , Den+is+ f r o m F+. S a s k a + c h e w a n , d e c k h a n d , c o o k , S l i m B a i n e s , p i Io+, C a p + a i n N y l e r , C o l o n e l R e e d , G e n e r a l M a n a g e r , and son. L. '1 „ _ . ^ ——,—•l Cameron Bay on G r e a t B e a r Lake I am p u t t i n g a o r the e a r l i e r l o t of years. happenings h e r e t o g e t h e r and some o f thorn m i g h t be in t h e later Away b a c k i n t h e f i r s t p a r t o f g o i n g up n o r t h when we had s t o l e n wood f r o m t h e Hudson Bay Company and w e r e t r y i n g t o b e a t them t o F i t z g e r a l d , I f o r g o t t o m e n t i o n t h a t t h e e n g i n e e r had s c r e w e d t h e s a f e t y v a l v e s down a l l o w i n g more p r e s s u r e t o g e t t o t h e e n g i n e s and t h e r e f o r e t o go a l i t t l e b i t f a s t e r . B u t a s soon a s C a p t a i n H a i g h t went o v e r t h e f a l l s and a h e a d o f u s , t h e e n g i n e e r p u t them b a c k w h e r e t h e y b e l o n g e d , o r a t l e a s t w h e r e he had had t h e m p r e v i o u s . A l s o , I b e l i e v e i t was i n 1932 we had come b a c k t o t h e L i a r d F i v e r f r o m F t . Norman a l l t h e way b a c k t o t h e s h i p y a r d s b e l o w F t . S m i t h . As we came in t h e r e a t n i g h t we p u l l e d a s h o r e and l e f t t h e b a r g e a t t h e s h i p y a r d s and t o o k o f f f o r F t . S m i t h . That n i g h t we had q u i t e a s t o r m w h i c h was a snow s t o r m and heavy w i n d s . We went b a c k t o t h e s h i p y a r d s t h e n e x t day and o u r b a r g e was m i s s i n g and c o u l d n ' t be f o u n d . We f i g u r e d t h a t t h e y w o u l d n a t u r a l l y go w i t h the, c u r r e n t d o w n s t r e a m so we t o o k o f f l o o k ing f o r i t . I b e l i e v e we went 40 o r 50 m i l e s d o w n s t r e a m . We c o u l d n ' t f i n d any t r a c e o f our barge. F i n a l l y t h e c a p t a i n d e c i d e d t o come b a c k . So we came b a c k and c o m i n g u p s t r e a m t h e snow had t h a w e d a l i t t l e b i t a s i t was r a i n i n g a t t h e t i m e and t h e s k i p p e r w i t h h i s g l a s s e s t h o u g h t he saw a c o r n e r o f t h e b a r g e w h i c h was d i r e c t l y a c r o s s f r o m the shipyards. As we g o t c l o s e r we knew i t was t h e b a r g e . The w i n d had been t h a t s t r o n g and blown t h e b a r g e s d i r e c t l y a c r o s s f r o m t h e s h i p y a r d s a g a i n s t t h e c u r r e n t and had blown them o v e r t o t h e w e s t s i d e o f t h e r i v e r w h e r e t h e r e was a k i n d o f an e d d y and t h e y g o t i n t o t h i s e d d y and some w i l l o w s o r t r e e s o r somet h i n g w i t h snow on t h e m and c o u l d n ' t be s e e n . However we w e r e s u r e g l a d t o f i n d t h e barge. Somehow o r o t h e r i n t h e d a r k w h o e v e r t i e d t h e b a r g e t o t h e s h o r e must have t i e d i t o n t o s o m e t h i n g t h a t came l o o s e when t h e b a r g e was l i f t i n g and p u l l i n g w i t h t h e w i n d b l o w i n g and p u l l e d l o o s e and d r i f t e d s t r a i g h t a c r o s s a g a i n s t t h e c u r r e n t . No one w o u l d e v e r t h i n k o f t h a t h a p p e n i n g . T h i s p a r t was on G r e a t B e a r Lake when we w e r e i n a v e r y bad s t o r m w h i c h I d e s c r i b e d beforehand. E v e r y b o d y was s i c k and t h e y had a l w a y s been k i d d i n g me b e c a u s e I had a l w a y s been one o f t h e f i r s t t o g e t s e a s i c k , b u t I n e v e r g o t v e r y seriously sick. H o w e v e r t h e new e n g i n e e r , B i l l M a l c o l m , and t h e c o o k p a r t i c u l a r l y had l o t s o f f u n k i d d i n g me a b o u t g e t t i n g s i c k . So now t h e y g o t s i c k and I w a s n ' t t o o b a d . I was a b l e t o m a n o u v e r and do w h a t e v e r I was s u p p o s e d t o d o . B i l l Malcolm, the engineer, who had come up t o h e l p rne and r e p l a c e t h e o t h e r e n g i n e e r who had q u i t and gone o u t g o t v e r y s i c k and c o u l d n ' t do a n y t h i n g a t a l l . The c o o k a l s o s t a y e d i n bed and w o u l d n ' t get c u t of bed. So t h e r e was t h e p i l o t , t h e c a p t a i n and m y s e l f t h e o n l y o n e s t h a t w e r e up and a r o u n d i n t h e m i d d l e o f G r e a t B e a r L a k e . So t h e c a p t a i n a s k e d me i f I knew a n y t h i n g about c o o k i n g . I s a i d " N o , I d o n ' t know v e r y much b u t I c a n f r y b a c o n and eggs". He s a y s " W e l l , go t o i t " . So I b u i l t a f i r e and f r i e d b a c o n and e g g s and we a l l had a b i t e t o e a t . T h a t ' s a l l I c o o k e d was bacon and e g g s and much t o my s u r p r i s e w h i l e I was d o i n g t h a t t h e s k i p p e r w o u l d t i e t h e wheel f o r a m i n u t e o r t w o , r u n down i n t o t h e g a l l e y and p u t some s t u f f t o g e t h e r r i g h t q u i c k l y and he w o u l d go b a c k t o t h e wheel and come b a c k a g a i n and do a l i t t l e more s e v e r a l t i m e s . Then he came b a c k and p u t s o m e t h i n g i n a pan and p u t i t i n t h e o v e n and you know t h a t he made some o f t h e b e s t c a k e t h a t r e a l l y I e v e r d i d t a s t e ! Where he l e a r n e d t o c o o k I d o n ' t know b u t he s u r e c o u l d c o o k . T h i s i s t h e c a p t a i n I h a t so f a r I c a n ' t remember h i s name. B u t w e ' l l f i n d o u t somehow. (Found o u t f r o m w r i t i n g t h e Hudson Bay A r c h i e v e s h i s name was C a p t a i n N y l e r j t Now g o i n g back t o when we w e r e t r a p p i n g . You remember I s p o k e a b o u t T i n y G i f f o r d c o m i n g a l o n g and we went w i t h him t o F t . Norman. W e l l p r i o r t o t h a t as s o o n as t h e w e a t h e r was c l e a r , t h e i c e had g o n e , t h e t w o I n d i a n b o y s came o v e r . T u f f y and I had t r a p p e d and s h o t what seemed t o be a b o u t 200 m u s k r a t s . Now we d i d n ' t know what we w e r e g o i n g t o do w i t h t h e s e m u s k r a t s . We d i d n ' t have any b o a r d s o r s t r e t c h e r s n o r any way t o s t r e t c h t h e m . B u t anyway t h e s e two b o y s came o v e r and t h e y v i s i t e d f o r a w h i l e and a s k e d us w h a t we w e r e g o i n g d i d n ' t know. So t h e y w e n t home. t o do w i t h t h e m u s k r a t s and we t o l d t h e m we The n e x t m o r n i n g , e a r l y , o v e r comes t h e w h o l e f a m i l y . H o w e v e r , we w e r e s t i l l in bed and d i d n ' t know t h a t t h e women had come a l o n g . B u t t h e men k n o c k e d on t h e d o o r and g o t us u p . So we g o t u p , made a f i r e and made some b r e a k f a s t and f h e men had b r e a k f a s t w i t h us and n e v e r s a i d n o t h i n g a t a l l b u t I had t o go o u t s i d e t o g e t some wood and h e r e was t w o women s k i n n i n g m u s k r a t s t o b e a t h e c k ! And a l s o a l i t t l e boy and g i r l a r o u n d 8 o r 9 o r 10 y e a r s o l d was o u t t h e r e w i t h t h e m . T h e y w o u l d s k i n t h e m u s k r a t s and t h e s e c h i l d r e n w o u l d f i n i s h t h e m w i t h s m a l l w i l l o w s w h i c h t h e y w o u l d bend and s t r e t c h the muskrats over the w i l l o w s . N e i t h e r my p a r t n e r who was p a r t I n d i a n n o r m y s e l f - n e i t h e r o n e - had e v e r s e e n t h a t way o f s t r e t c h i n g m u s k r a t s and n e v e r t h o u g h t of i t . We d i d n ' t had any i d e a what t o do w i t h t h e m . H o w e v e r t h e two women w o u l d n o t come i n t o have a n y t h i n g t o e a t b u t t h e y had s o m e t h i n g w i t h them w h i c h t h e y w e r e e a t i n g a s t h e y w o r k e d . B u t t h e y w o u l d s k i n t h o s e m u s k r a t s s o f a s t you must c o u l d n ' t b e l i e v e i t . They s t a y e d r i g h t t h e r e u n t i l t h e y w e r e a l l done b e f o r e t h e y went home t h a t n i g h t . A c t u a l l y t h e r e i s n ' t " much n i g h t a s t h e sun s h i n e s p r e t t y w e l l d a y l i g h t a r o u n d t h e c l o c k . I t ' s s u r p r i s i n g what you l e a r n a s you t r a v e l a r o u n d t h e w o r l d . On t h i s t r i p w h i c h had s p o k e a b o u f p r e v i o u s l y on G r e a t B e a r L a k e I l e a r n e d t w o o r t h r e e t h i n g s t h a t I am s u r e g l a d t o know. I One o f t h e m was on t h e way o v e r we s t a r t e d p l a y i n g c a r d s a s we had done s o m e t i m e s c r o s s the lake. T h e r e i s r e a l l y n o t much t h a t you c a n do e x c e p t r e a d , so we p l a y e d c a r d s w i t h a 50 c e n t l i m i t . T h a t i s you c o u l d n ' t b e t more t h a n 50 c e n t s a t a t i m e so t h a t nobody c o u l d l o s e a l l t h e i r money. H o w e v e r one o f t h e p a s s e n g e r s w a t c h e d f o r a w h i l e and t h e n a s k e d i f he c o u l d s e t i n . We s a i d " S u r e " . So he s a t down and i t s o ',: h a p p e n e d t h a t he s e t down between t h e c a p t a i n and m y s e l f and we p l a y e d f o r a few h a n d s and t h e b i d d i n g w o u l d come r o u n d t o me and I w o u l d p r o b a b l y c a l l and r a i s e t h e a n t e and he w o u l d be n e x t and he w o u l d l a y down, t h a t i s he w o u l d l a y h i s hand down. The c a p t a i n w o u l d l i k e l y c a l l . S o m e t i m e s he w o u l d l a y down. Most o f t h e t i m e he w o u l d c a l l and s o m e t i m e s r a i s e a g a i n . T l i i s w e n t on a c o u p l e o f t i m e s . So a f t e r we had p l a y e d T h i s hand o u t b e f o r e we come t o t h e end o f i t t h i s f e l l a s a y s t o me " A f t e r you f e l l a s a r e t h r o u g h " he s a y s " c o u l d I s e e y o u r h a n d ? " I says "Sure". So I showed him my h a n d . So he s a y s " O k a y , e v e r y t h i n g i s h o n e s t " . He s a y s " I f i t h a d n ' t o f been I wanf t o show you w h a t I c a n d o " . So he t o o k t h e c a r d s and he s a y s " I ' m g o i n g t o g i v e you a s p a d e f l u s h ( o r w h a t e v e r i t i s ) I'm g o i n g t o g i v e you a s p a d e o r s o m e t h i n g . Anyway he w o u l d g i v e us a h a n d . He w o u l d t e l l us a h e a d o f t i m e w h a t k i n d o f a hand he was g o i n g t o g i v e u s . And you know, you c o u l d w a t c h and be d a r n e d , you c o u l d c u t t h e c a r d s and do a n y t h i n g you l i k e and he w e n t r i g h t a h e a d and he d e a l t you t h e c a r d s he s a i d he was g o i n g t o . Well t h a t changed my i d e a o f p l a y i n g c a r d s f o r money. And s i n c e t h a t t i m e I'm p r e t t y c a r e f u l b e f o r e I e v e r g e t i n t o a p o k e r game. A l e s s o n l e a r n e d .at no c o s t . On t h i s same t r i p on t h e r e t u r n we had t h e same young f e l l a s I b e l i e v e i t was t h a t t h e c a p t a i n had l i s t e n e d t o on G r e a t S l a v e L a k e b u t I'm n o t s u r e . Anyway i t was as I s a i d b e f o r e , r e a l l y c o l d and f r e e z i n g - i c e f r e e z i n g on t h e b o a t . The r e s t o f us t h a t w e r e o f f s h i f t had gone i n and p u l l e d t h e c o v e r s o v e r us and had gone t o bed i n o u r bunks b u t t h e r e was a c o l e m a n ( e i t h e r k e r o s e n e o r g a s , I d o n ' t know w h i c h ) and i t was s i t t i n g r i g h t a t my head o r my f e e t - d e p e n d i n g on w h i c h way i l a i d down, b u t between me and w h o e v e r was on t h e o t h e r s i d e . T h e r e i s o n l y a few f e e t . This this y o u n g f e l l a comes down and d e c i d e d i t was c o l d i n t h e r e so he was g o i n g stove. The r e s t o f us w e r e a f r a i d t o l i g h t i t b e c a u s e we w e r e n o t s u r e to light that we u n d e r s t o o d i t w e l l e n o u g h . Remember t h a t we w e r e o u t i n t h e m i d d l e o f G r e a t B e a r Lake. Anyway he l i t t h e s t o v e and somehow t h e w h o l e t h i n g c a u g h t f i r e . I was j u s t l y i n g t h e r e and so was e v e r y b o d y e l s e . Nobody r e a l l y knew j u s t what t o d o . We t h o u g h t he w o u l d t u r n i t o f f and i t w o u l d gc o u t o r s o m e t h i n g . However t h e p i l o t saw t h e smoke c o m i n g up a s we w e r e down i n ' t h e h o l e i n f r o n t o f t h e p i l o t h o u s e and t h e smoke was c o m i n g o u t t h e s l i d i n g d o o r . The p i l o t p u s h e d t h e d o o r b a c k , jumped down t h e s t a i r s i n t o t h e h o l e , g r a b b e d t h e b l a n k e t o f f o f m e , t h r e w it" on t h e s t o v e , w r a p p e d i t e n t i r e l y i n t h e b l a n k e t and up t h e s t a i r s he g o e s and T h r o w s i t i n t o t h e I a ke. Now t h e p i l o t s a v e d a l l o f o u r l i v e s b e c a u s e i f he h a d n ' t o f done t h a t w i t h i n f i v e m i n u t e s o r so t h e w h o l e b o a t w o u l d have been on f i r e . T h e r e w o u l d have been no t i m e t o g e t f i r e e x t i n q u i s h e r s o r do a n y t h i n g b e c a u s e t h e r e was a l w a y s a s m a l l amount o f g a s f l o a t i n g a r o u n d i n t h e w a t e r i n t h e h o l e i n t h e b o a t . Gas and o i l and a n y t h i n g s p i l l e d w o u l d g e t down i n t o t h e h o l e and be f l o a t i n g a r o u n d i n t h e w a t e r t h e r e . And i f you g o t e n o u g h h e a t i f w o u l d be j u s t a m a t t e r o f m i n u t e s t i l l e v e r y t h i n g w o u l d be on f i r e . So t h i s p i l o t s a v e d a l l o f o u r l i v e s and we c a n be v e r y t h a n k f u l f o r t h a t and I c e r t a i n l y l e a r n e d a l e s s o n w h a t t o in case of f i r e happening l i k e t h a t . If t h e r e ' s a b l a n k e t handy t o wrap up t h e f i r e , and s m o t h e r i t . Now you w i l l n o t i c e t h a t I s p o k e a b o u t e n g i n e e r s . W e l l when t h e f i r s t e n g i n e e r came up who was s u p p o s e d t o be c h i e f e n g i n e e r and who s a i d he w o u l d do my j o b i f I w o u l d do h i s b u t he w o u l d keep h i s own pay - IlMl t e l l y o u w h a t happened t o h i m . He was k i n d o f a s h o w - o f f k i n d o f a guy and he w o u l d l i k e v e r y much t o t a l k t o a n y o f f i c i a l s who m i g h t be a r o u n d who w o u l d l i s t e n i f he c o u l d make h i m s e l f l o o k b i g o r make t h e p e o p l e t h i n k he was somebody t h a t he w a s n ' t . However t h i s p a r t i c u l a r day we w e r e f i l l i n g up w i t h g a s w h i c h had t o be pumped by hand f r o m b a r r e l s i n t o t a n k s on t h e b o a t . The t a n k s a r e h o o k e d t o g e t h e r and n o r m a l l y t h e g a s r u n s a c r o s s f r o m o n e t o a n o t h e r p r o v i d e d t h e r e ' s no r u s t o r a n y t h i n g i n the p i p e s t h a t m i g h t p l u g t h e m up. H o w e v e r , t h e one who was pumping t h e gas i s s u p p o s e d t o keep c o n s t a n t w a t c h and has a s t i c k w i t h m a r k e r s on i t w i t h i n c h e s and knows how many i n c h e s s h o u l d be i n e a c h t a n k on e a c h s i d e o f t h e b o a t . However t h i s p a r t i c u l a r day C o l o n e l Reed and I b e l i e v e some o f t h e C o m m i s s i o n e r s f r o m W i n n i p e g w e r e c o m i n g i n on a p l a n e f r o m F t . Norman and l a n d i n g a t F r a n k l i n B a y . The p l a n e was j u s t c o m i n g i n and t h i s e n g i n e e r was s t a n d i n g t h e r e pumping away l i k e heck. I t s o h a p p e n e d t h a t I s t a y e d up and d i d n ' t go t o bed l i k e I s h o u l d have and was d o i n g s o m e t h i n g i n t h e e n g i n e room and I s m e l l e d , g a s . So I went o u t s i d e and t h e g a s was r u n n i n g a l l o v e r t h e d e c k - t h a t ' s t h e d e c k you w a l k o n , y o u r d i n i n g room and b u n k s and e v e r y t h i n g a r e b e l o w d e c k e x c e p t f o r ' t h e p i l o t ' s h o u s e w h e r e t h e s k i p p e r s l e e p s - and h e r e g a s was r u n n i n g a l l a r o u n d and t h e c o o k had t h e window open. I c l o s e d t h e window. He g o t mad and o p e n e d i t a g a i n . I h o l l e r e d and t o l d him t h a t t h e r e was g a s t h e r e . He had a wood f i r e g o i n g t h e r e j u s t a m a t t e r o f i n c h e s away f r o m where t h e gas was on t h e d e c k o f t h e b o a t . I l e t o u t a y e l I and t h e guy q u i t pumping g a s . lie came o v e r and saw what had h a p p e n e d , he w a l k e d o f f and n e v e r came b a c k . He n e v e r t o l d me he was l e a v i n g o r n o t h i n g , hie met t h e p l a n e and s a i d he was f i n i s h e d . Then he came b a c k and p i c k e d up h i s s u i t c a s e and went o u t on t h e plane. r E n g i n e e r who pumped g a s a i l o v e r deck, Oscar Green and S l i m B a i n e s - G r e a t V T h a t ' s when t h e y s e n t B i l l M a l c o m up, t h e s e c o n d e n g i n e e r t o h e l p me. But poor B i l l he was no b e t t e r o f f b e c a u s e he knew a b s o l u t e l y n o t h i n g a b o u t g a s b u t we d i d have a l o t o f f u n w i t h h i m and h e ' s t h e o n e t h a t t r i e d t o t a k e t h e b o a t down t h r o u g h t h e f a s t w a t e r and w h e r e t h e t r e e came i n t h e window on t h e s i d e o f trie b o a t and he q u i t r i g h t there. He w o u l d have no more t o do w i t h i t . W e l l w h i l e b e i n g a t r a p p e r up n o r t h I s e e n p e o p l e w i t h s a i l s , I n d i a n s s a i l i n g and what n o t and r e a l l y t h o u g h t t h e r e was n o t much t o i t . So I g o t a p o l e and p u t up, made a few r i n g s and t i e d them t o g e t h e r , f a s t e n e d them o n t o p a r t o f o u r t e n t t h a t we had t o r n up t o make a s a i l . We had a l i t t l e r o p e so we j u s t p u l l e d i t up o v e r t o p and l e t i t go and i t w o u l d f a l l down and i t was f i n e . B u t n e i t h e r one o f us had had a n y experience with s a i l s . But here I got mine! We t o o k t h i s b o a t w i t h a s a i l on i t and I t h o u g h t I w o u l d go a c r o s s and use t h e s a i l t o go a c r o s s t o w h e r e t h e I n d i a n s w e r e a b o u t 4 o r 5 , m i l e s a c r o s s t h e M a c k e n z i e Fiver. So I g o t o u t and a l i t t l e b i t o f w i n d b l e w and I was d o i n g f i n e . I had t o go up a g a i n s t t h e c u r r e n t t o g e t a r o u n d t h e u p p e r p a r t o f t h e i s l a n d and t h e n t h e r e was a n o t h e r i s l a n d f a r t h e r . And when I c l e a r e d t h a t i s l a n d t h e w i n d seemed t o be g e t t i n g s t r o n g e r a l l t h e t i m e and t h e waves b i g g e r . So I d e c i d e d I b e t t e r g e t r i d o f t h e s a i l and I l e t go o f t h e r o p e , b a c k e d o f f , but t h e s a i l w o u l d n ' t d r o p down b e c a u s e t h e w i n d was s t r o n g e n o u g h t h a t i t h e l d t h e r i n g s a g a i n s t t h e mast t h a t I had put up. T h e r e was no way t o p u l l t h e s a i l down and t h e waves w e r e t h a t h i g h and t h e s a i l f l o p p i n g b a c k and f o r t h . I c o u l d n ' t go up t o t h e bow o f t h e b o a t and p u l l it down by hand o r t h e waves w o u l d have swamped me. I kept heading t o t h e west shore where t h e I n d i a n s l i v e d . P r e t t y s o o n I saw t h e two b o y s c o m i n g o u t i n a l i t t l e b i r c h b a r k c a n o e . I d o n ' t know what t h e y w o u l d have done had I u p s e t b u t I do know t h a t t h e y c e r t a i n l y g a v e me c o u r a g e t o keep on t r y i n g and I f i n a l l y g o t t o s h o r e and I s u r e n e v e r used a s a i l a f t e r t h a t ! A l s o a t F t . Norman a t o n e t i m e w h i l e u n l o a d i n g t h e r e we went f o r a w a l k b a c k i n t o t h e woods and came t o t h i s c o o k h o u s e w h i c h was b u i l t a b o u t 1920 ( s o m e t i m e a l o n g t h e r e ) and t h i s i s now 1932 o r 3 3 . M i n d you t h i s was a i l b u i l t o u t o f what i s c a l l e d whipsawed lumber. F o r t h o s e who d o n ' t u n d e r s t a n d what w h i p s a w i s - you have a s t a n d up a r o u n d 7 o r 8 f e e t h i g h and you p u t a l o g up t h e r e and o n e man s t a y s a b o v e i t and o n e b e l o w i t and t h e y have s i m i l a r t o what used t o be c a l l e d a c r o s s c u t saw w h i c h i s a l o n g saw a b o u t 6 f e e t l o n g and a h a n d l e on e a c h end and a man up a b o v e and a man b e l o w and t h e y saw down t h i s l o g , s a w i n g t h e l o g i n t o b o a r d s and t h a t ' s what t h e y c a l l whipsawed lumber. T h i s o l d c o o k h o u s e , +he + a b l e s , +he b e n c h e s , e v e r y t h i n g + h e r e was b u i l t from w h i p s a w e d l u m b e r i n c l u d i n g t h e f l o o r and t h e r o o f . F o r w i n d o w s t h e y had c o t t o n o r l i n e n o r some kind of c l o t h o v e r a l l t h e windows. T h a t had been t h e r e f o r 10 y e a r s o r more and t h o u g h i t was f l o p p i n g i n t h e w i n d and had h o l e s i n i t and s h r e d d e d and some o f i t s h r e d d e d p r e t t y b a d , i t was s t i l l t h e r e . On t h e t a b l e s was g r a n i t e p l a t e s , s a u c e r s and c u p s , k n i v e s and f o r k s , w i t h t h e c u p s and p l a t e s t u r n e d u p s i d e down a l l r e a d y f o r the next meal. W h e t h e r o r n o t t h e y e v e r had a n y m e a l s t h e r e I d o n ' t know b u t t h e r e was a s e t t i n g f o r a b o u t t w e n t y p e o p l e . A l l t h e y had t o do was g e t r i d o f t h e d u s t and p u t f o o d on t h e p l a t e s . I t h i n k t h i s was p r o b a b l y o u r I a s t t r i p o f t a k i n g f r e i g h t up b e c a u s e we s e n t t h e p i l o t on up t h e r i v e r and S l i m D a v i s and m y s e l f b r o u g h t t h e b o a t b a c k down t o F t . Norman. However S l i m came t o me and he s a y s " Y o u t h i n k you c a n t a k e t h e b o a t down? P i l o t i t down?" T h i s b o a t had t h e c o n t r o l s i n t h e p i l o t house so you c o u l d r u n t h e e n g i n e f r o m t h e p i l o t house as w e l l . I s a i d " W e l l I t h i n k I c a n t a k e i t down a s f a r a s what t h e y c a l l t h e " f i s h carnp" ( t h e r e was a c a b i n t h e r e ) " I f you c a n t a k e i t the r e s t of the way". " W e l l " he s a y s " Y o u t a k e i t down t h e r e and I ' l l t a k e i t t h e r e s t of t h e way." So I s t a r t e d o f f and l e t me t e l l you i t was p r e t t y s c a r y . I was f i n e t o s i t t h e r e o r s t a n d t h e r e and w a t c h Jimmy t a k e t h e b o a t down and see t h e r o c k s g o i n g by I i c k i t y s p l i t b u t when you g o t a h o l d o f t h e wheel and w e r e s t e e r i n g , i t was a n o t h e r s t o r y a l t o g e t h e r and i f w a s n ' t n e a r a s n i c e a s I t h o u g h f i + wouId b e . However a f t e r a few c l o s e s h a v e s and h i t t i n g t h e odd s a n d b a r , I go+ down +0 +he " f i s h c a m p " b u t D a v i s , he w a s n ' t t h e r e . He was down i n t h e h o l e . I says "Hey, come and t a k e o v e r , i t ' s y o u r t u r n " . He s a y s , "Oh n o , y o u r d o i n g f i n e ! C a r r y o n " . Boy now I was r e a l l y s c a r e d b e c a u s e I r e a l l y d i d n ' t ' pay any a t t e n t i o n and I d i d n ' t know what I was d o i n g . Fish Camp We k e p t on g o i n g and we d i d n ' t g e t i n t o any s e r i o u s t r o u b l e t i l l we come down t o w i t h i n a m i l e o f t h e mouth o f t h e B e a r R i v e r w h e r e i t r u n s i n t o t h e M a c k e n z i e and t h e r e t h e r e was a f a l l s w h i c h we a l w a y s w e n t up on t h e e a s t s i d e and t h e n swung across. However c o m i n g down i t w a s n ' t n e c e s s a r y . B u t I h a d n ' t p a i d t h a t much a t t e n t i o n t o w h e r e Jimmy had been t a k i n g t h e b o a t d o w n s t r e a m and I t h o u g h t I was d o i n g a b o u t t h e same t h i n g . But I d i d n ' t . I went o v e r t h e f a l l s and we went a b o u t 100 y a r d s and r u n i n t o a s a n d b a r a n d , t r a v e l l i n g a s f a s t a s we c o u l d , we g o t s t u c k p r e t t y bad. B u t a g a i n we w e r e v e r y l u c k y . There were a c o u p l e o f boys c o m i n g down i n a c a n o e and t h e y came down. So t h e y came o v e r t h e f a l l s and t i e d t h e c a n o e on t h e b o a t and jumped i n t o t h e w a t e r and s t a r t e d p u s h i n g and we r u n t h e e n g i n e s and t h e y w o u l d p u s h and push and w i g g l e t h e b o a t u n t i l f i n a l l y we g o t i t m o v i n g and g o t i t o f f t h e s a n d b a r and o u t i n t o t h e w a t e r . Thanks t o t h e s e two boys. I d o n ' t know who t h e y w e r e , I n e v e r g o t t h e i r names. But b e i n g a p i l o t w a s n ' t o n e o f my a c c o m p l i s h m e n t s . ' I spoke about l o s i n g t h e barge back aways. W e l l t h a t f a l l we g o t f r o z e i n a t Ft. Smith. The p l a n e came i n t o t a k e us o u t b u t on t h e r a d i o t h e n e x t m o r n i n g t h e y t o l d t h e m t o come b a c k empty a s i c e was s t a r t i n g t o run a t F t . M c M u r r a y . So he w e n t o f f w i t h o u t us and we had t o s t a y t h e r e t i l l a r o u n d C h r i s t m a s t i m e . I j u s t then went and a s k e d my w i f e (by t h e way, w e ' v e o n l y been m a r r i e d 62 y e a r s - n o t t o o bad .' I e x p e c t t o l i v e t o be 105 and 1 e x p e c t h e r t o l i v e t o be i n h e r 9 0 ' s , so I g o t a few y e a r s y e t , we hope). However she s a y s i t was s o m e t i m e in t h e f i r s t p a r t o f P e c e m b e r when we f l e w o u t . T h a t was q u i t e an e x p e r i e n c e . 1 w i l l t r y t o remember t h e p i l o t ' s name i f I c a n . H o w e v e r , he came b a c k and t h e o n l y p l a c e he c o u l d l a n d , ( t h e r e was no a i r p o r t o f any d e s c r i p t i o n a t t h a t t i m e a r o u n d F t . S m i t h ) t h e o n l y p l a c e he c o u l d l a n d was w h a t we c a l l e d a s n y e w h i c h r u n s i n b e h i n d an i s l a n d below F t . S m i t h . I d o n ' t remember f o r s u r e how f a r down t h i s i s l a n d i s b u t I t h i n k i t ' s p o s s i b l y 3 or 4 miles or farther. However he had l a n d e d t h e p l a n e t h e r e and s a i d he w o u l d t a k e us o u t a s t h e r i v e r was a l l f r o z e up by t h i s t i m e , He had l a n d e d on t h e i c e i n b e h i n d f h i s i s l a n d w h i c h was smooth a s t h e i c e d i d n ' t f l o w in t h e r e and g e t r o u g h a s i t d i d o u t i n t h e main c h a n n e l . So we g o t r e a d y and t h e y t o o k a l l o f o u r l u g g a g e and s t u f f on a h o r s e and s l e i g h We had t o f o l l o w and w a l k down t o w h e r e t h e a i r c a f t was p a r k e d i n t h i s s n y e . Of c o u r s e t h e y had been t h e r e q u i t e a w h i l e b e f o r e we w e r e and had some k i n d o f p o t s g o i n g - g a s p o t s o r o i l p o t s o r s o m e t h i n g and c a n v a s o v e r t h e m o t o r s t o h e a t them up so t h e y c o u l d g e t t h e m r u n n i n g . H o w e v e r , I t h i n k t h i s o n e had o n l y one m o t o r and i t seems t o me i t was b u i l t o u t o f t i n . Anyway t h e y g o t i t warmed up and t h e p i l o t s a y s " I ' m o v e r l o a d e d . I s h o u l d l e a v e o n e o f you h e r e and y o u r luggage. He s a y s " A c t u a l l y , I'm o v e r l o a d e d " . W e l l he s a y s "I g u e s s w e ' l l g a m b l e " . Wetl anyway tie t o o k o f f . I t h i n k h i s name was S t a n M c M u I I i n but I'm n o t s u r e . H o w e v e r , he t o o k o f f and a h e a d o f us he c o u l d s e e a few h u n d r e d y a r d s a h e a d o f us w h e r e t h e i c e c u t a c r o s s t h e end w h e r e t h e i c e i s p i l e d up t h e r e 10 o r 12 f e e t h i g h and h e r e we a r e come s a i l i n g down, w i d e o p e n and t h e p l a n e s t i I I on t h e i c e . I had my b a c k t o i t b u t I t u r n e d a r o u n d so I c o u l d s e e anyway and so S t a n , he t a k e s i t up a l i t t l e b i t i n t o t h e a i r ( p r o b a b l y 10 o r 12 f e e t ) and b r i n g s i t down. Bumps i t on t h e i c e and b o u n c e s t h e p l a n e up o v e r t h e p i l e o f i c e a t t h e end o f t h e s n y e . You c a n ' t t e l l me t h a t he d i d n ' t come c l o s e t o h e a r t f a i l u r e r i g h t t h e r e b e c a u s e I d i d and I t h i n k e v e r y b o d y i n t h e p l a n e d i d ! H o w e v e r t h e r e was n o t a word s p o k e n and t h e r e i s a b i g m o u n t a i n j u s t w e s t o f F t . S m i t h down t h e r i v e r . He headed f o r t h a t m o u n t a i n and he n e v e r s t o p p e d c l i m b i n g u n t i l he was w e l l a b o v e t h e m o u n t a i n w h i c h I t h i n k i s 5 , 0 0 0 f e e t . Anyway he k e p t c l i m b i n g and c l i m b i n g and c l i m b i n g and n e v e r t u r n e d r i g h t n o r l e f t and n e v e r s a i d nothing. F i n a l l y a f t e r he g o t o v e r t h i s m o u n t a i n and he s t a r t e d t o t u r n a r o u n d , t h e n he s t a r t e d t o t a l k and I g u e s s he f e l t he c o u l d g l i d e b a c k t o w h e r e he t o o k o f f i f he had t o . H o w e v e r we n e v e r l a n d e d anymore u n t i l we g o t t o F t . M c f t u r r a y and W a t e r w a y s and we l a n d e d t h e r e i n t h e s n y e . And b e l i e v e you me, t h a t ' s one a i r p l a n e r i d e t h a t I d o n ' t w a n t anymore a t a l l . I hope you may f i n d a few t h i n g s f r o m my e x p e r i e n c e up n o r t h . t h a t may h e l p you a s I have s u r e l y learned lots We had t o s t a y i n t h e hot*"-' and w a i t f o r t h e t r a i n t o come i n t h e n e x t day I b e l i e v e i t was. D u r i n g t h e n i g h t a boy by t h e name o f W i l f C l e a d e r and I had p a i r e d o f f and t a k e n t h e same room i n t h e h o t e l and we w e r e a l l on t h e same f l o o r . We had l e f t t h e d o o r open a b o u t an i n c h o r so and d u r i n g t h e n i g h t , p r o b a b l y a r o u n d 2 o r 3 o ' c l o c k i n t h e m o r n i n g , I m y s e l f woke up c o u g h i n g . I o p e n e d my e y e s and t u r n e d on t h e l i g h t and t h e smoke f i l l e d t h e room j u s t a b o v e o u r h e a d s like a cloud. I woke W i l f up and you c o u l d n ' t s t r a i g h t e n up b e c a u s e i f you s t r a i g h t e n e d up y o u r head w o u l d be i n t h e smoke and y o u ' d r e a l l y c o u g h . So we g o t o u t i n t o t h e h a l l w a y and t h o u g h t we c o u l d s e e a l i g h t u n d e r a d o o r and we s t a r t e d y e l l i n g and h o l l e r i n g . W i f e f o u n d a f i r e e x t i n g u i s h e r and i t w o u l d n ' t g o . We h o l l e r e d f o r t h e c a p t a i n and a l l t h e r e s t o f t h e crew and t h e d o o r s s t a r t e d o p e n i n g up and we g o t t h e l i g h t on and we o p e n e d t h e d o o r i n t o w h e r e t h e c o o k was s l e e p i n g and s u r e enough t h e c o o k had gone t o bed s m o k i n g a p p a r e n t l y a s t h e bed was a l l on f i r e a l l a r o u n d f r o m a b o u t t h e m i d d l e o f t h e bed a l l a r o u n d t h e Iiead o f t h e bed and t h e s i d e o f t h e b e d . A b o u t o n e - t h i r d o f t h e bed was e n g u l f e d and b u r n i n g . We c o u l d n ' t g e t t r i e f i r e e x t i n g u i s h e r t o w o r k but W i l f knew a l i t t l e b i t a b o u t i t so he g a v e i t a bump on t h e f l o o r . In d o i n g s o I t h i n k m y s e l f o r someone was h o l d i n g o n t o t h e h o s e . I t b r o k e o f f and he t u r n e d t h e f i r e e x t i n g u i s h e r a r o u n d and h i t t h e c o o k smack i n t h e f a c e w i t h i t and he s a i d " W h a t ' s g o i n g on h e r e " ? When he o p e n e d h i s e y e s he s o o n saw what was g o i n g o n . W h a t e v e r h a p p e n e d r e g a r d i n g t h e f i r e , I have no i d e a b u t I g u e s s t h e c a p t a i n and t h e c o o k must have g o t t e n t h i n g s f i x e d up someway o r a n o t h e r f o r we n e v e r h e a r d anymore a b o u t i t . But t h a t ' s a n o t h e r t h i n g I l e a r n e d - n o t t o room w i t h a n y b o d y t h a t smokes i n b e d . I t ' s p r e t t y dangerous. And f o r t h o s e o f you who smoke i n bed o r smoke g o i n g t o b e d , t h i n k a b o u t i t t w i c e . I t h i n k you w i l l f i n d t h a t i s good a d v i c e . W h i l e t r a p p i n g down n o r t h I f o r g o t t o m e n t i o n a b o u t my p a r t n e r T u f f y B r a z e a u . We had g o n e t o Good Hope, F t . Good Hope t h a t i s , t o g e t s u p p l i e s . They had had a dance. W e l l he d a n c e d a l l n i g h t b u t I d i d n ' t . I s l e p t a t t h e p o s t and was f r e s h the next day. T u f f y came i n i n t h e m o r n i n g . So we had b r e a k f a s t and t o o k o f f . I a s k e d him a b o u t c h a n g i n g c l o t h e s b u t he s a y s " N o , I'm o k a y , I ' l l p u t my p a r k a on". However we g o t 5 m i l e s o r so and we come o u t i n t o what was open i c e . It was s m o o t h and t h e r e was n o t h i n g s t o p p i n g t h e w i n d b l o w i n g . And t h e w i n d came up and we n o r m a l l y w o u l d t a k e t u r n s a b o u t b r e a k i n g t r a i l f o r t h e d o g s . You had s m a l l s n o w s h o e s on and you w o u l d go a h e a d f o r t h e d o g s so t h e y w o u l d n ' t s i n k down t o o deep. So anyway he had been b r e a k i n g t r a i l so I went a h e a d on m y t u r n and a f t e r a w h i l e I l o o k e d b a c k and he was t r y i n g t o w a l k b a c k w a r d s on h i s s n o w s h o e s . I stopped and w a i t e d u n t i l he c a u g h t up and I a s k e d him " W h a t ' s t h e m a t t e r F u f f y " ? lie s a y s " I ' m n - n - n - n - n n - n e a r l y f r o z e t o d e a t h ! " So we undone t h e c a r r y a l l on t h e t o b o g g a n and I g o t a b i g Hudson Bay b l a n k e t o u t . We a l s o had some q u i t e l a r g e p i n s we u s e d t o u s e . We had s e e n them u s e d t o p i n h o r s e b l a n k e t s o n . We had some c f t h e s e s o we g o t t h e b l a n k e t w r a p p e d a r o u n d him and p i n n e d i t a l l up and l e t i t hang down I i k e a s k i r t . We s t i I I had a c o u p l e o f m i l e s t o go b e f o r e we g o t t o w h e r e we c o u l d go a s h o r e and e v e n t h e n i t was a s t e e p b a n k , s t r a i g h t up and down. You c o u l d n ' t go anyplace. However t h e r e was one l i t t l e s p r u c e t r e e w h i c h was dead and d r i e d a b o u t 50 f e e t on t h e b a n k . Of c o u r s e snow had b l o w n o v e r and d r i f t e d down. So I t o o k o f f my s n o w s h o e s and s t a r t e d , c l i m b i n g up t h i s d r i f t t o g e t up t o t h i s t r e e , PACIFC OCEAN ALASKA BRITISH COLUMBIA TELEGRAPH C R E E K ® " " * YUKON £•» S 1 h DAvVSON r^p^KlP^ RIVER__ GRAHAME W ! » K » VJP*v. « HUDSON H O E I p FORT ST. J O H N - *\fft> NELSON' FOR*. S J OLD CROW —r"-^FOKf / NELSON 'FORT LIARO WHlTECOURT * r i cy Tjy ^ ^ * _ ^ ? J 7 t " CROSSING ' FORT GOOD HOPE ARCTIC OCEAN T^ORT NORMA* ALBERTA MAIN FORT VERKILIOt^ ALL-CANADIAN 1 LAKE FORT LAC LA HAY RIVER ROUTES E NORTHWEST FROM TERRITORIES \ \ J EDMONTON TO THE KLONDIKE 1897-1898 »l. C FORT ' SMITH'